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Bass Building - a few hypothetical questions

Posted by Andy White (Noisetop Guitars) on July 1, 2010 at 4:23pm in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion

Hi Guys

 

I have made several CBG's now and basically want to build a bass employing the same principals.

 

Question 1) Do you reckon I can use standard electric guitar machine heads - I figure they must work providing there is enough space to coil the bass strings (just about will suit me - I'm not building perfection here)

 

Q2) I am not using a truss rod or any form of artificial support in the neck - I have a nice peice of teak about 1 1/4 inch thick which, even when I shape, i am planning on keeping most of the depth - do you think the temsion on 3 standard electric guitar bass strings will be too much - should I opt for 2 - I would prefer 3 but don't want to put in all the work only to find it Bowed out

 

Any advise or experiences you have to shar - fire them my way

 

Andy

 

 

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Replies

  • Wade July 10, 2010 at 9:49am
    I've built quite a few 3 and 4 stringers with flat and quartersawn. Unfortunately all flatsawn necks(poplar) did bow. The good news is that if you are choosy, I have found quartersawn wood at HD and Lowe's. I believe the tighter the grain the better, also

    BenBob said:
    Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
    http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

    Wade said:
    You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass
  • Andy White (Noisetop Guitars) July 9, 2010 at 6:36pm
    Guys - it's built.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vklR0khwzNc

    I am still waiting for bass tuners to arrive - so i stuck some electric machine heads on to experiment - and they actually work!

    Anyhow - it's a bit rough looking but was always more of an experimental prototype - Am defo gonna make an upright when I have souced a real big box (might need to make the box)

    Thanks for all the help guys - really appreciate peoples point of view - and a bit of healthy debate never hurt anyone.

    Andy
  • Don Thompson July 7, 2010 at 6:41am
    The use of quarter sawn has been around for a long long time, very doubtfull that lutheriers are going to rethink it. It becomes a moot issue when a adjustable truss rod is installed. A Fender and most other electrics necks are flat sawn because it doesn't matter.
    Don

    BenBob said:
    Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
    http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

    Wade said:
    You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass
  • Don Thompson July 7, 2010 at 6:33am
    I had to look up the Janka hardness test, it turns out to be a means to grade wood for use in flooring, so what is good for a fingerboard ,hardness, may not be good for a neck, stablility and resistence to flexing.
    Don

    Don Thompson said:
    Matt, You are spot on, there are many wood species that spank teak in a number of areas, ability to resit bending being one of them. It's a member of the birch family I think which is not known for it's inherint strength, but very stable. Should have been more exact in my praise.
    Don

    Matt Towe said:
    Don Thompson said:
    Teak is one of the world's strongest and most stable woods. isn't that good for a neck? It can dull tools.
    Don

    Matt Towe said:
    I don't have a problem with the tonal qualities of teak ........ I just don't think it would be strong enuff w/out a trussrod.


    Matt

    Really? I knew it had good lasting and waterproof (?) properties because of the marine use, but looking at the Janka wood hardness scale it comes in way belom oak, ash, etc.

    btw- never worked with it ( not a wood worker), just using the almighty internet resouces.

    Matt
  • NoxTerran July 6, 2010 at 7:47pm
    i build nothin but bass and personally i agree with Towe on this one, BASS tuners are the way to go, i use eyebolts myself but i am also a cheapskate. as for neck, i dont know much about teak so i cant comment on that but i prefer oak, works beautiful in my work. hope that helps
  • BenBob July 6, 2010 at 2:52am
    Interesting, I read recently that the opposite may be true for the purpose of stiffness:
    http://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/quartersawn.htm

    Wade said:
    You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass
  • Wade July 5, 2010 at 11:06pm
    You may have heard this before but the grain direction to me makes a big difference. Quartersawn wood is the way to go(grain perpendicular to fretboard) best of luck on your project. I'm currently looking into building a "gutbucket" type bass
  • Don Thompson July 2, 2010 at 9:21pm
    Matt, You are spot on, there are many wood species that spank teak in a number of areas, ability to resit bending being one of them. It's a member of the birch family I think which is not known for it's inherint strength, but very stable. Should have been more exact in my praise.
    Don

    Matt Towe said:
    Don Thompson said:
    Teak is one of the world's strongest and most stable woods. isn't that good for a neck? It can dull tools.
    Don

    Matt Towe said:
    I don't have a problem with the tonal qualities of teak ........ I just don't think it would be strong enuff w/out a trussrod.


    Matt

    Really? I knew it had good lasting and waterproof (?) properties because of the marine use, but looking at the Janka wood hardness scale it comes in way belom oak, ash, etc.

    btw- never worked with it ( not a wood worker), just using the almighty internet resouces.

    Matt
  • BenBob July 2, 2010 at 7:42pm
    If this helps, I compared guitar/bass tension while planning a bass, but I haven't actually buit it yet:

    25" Acoustic light ADG tuned AEA: 106.4 lbs (473 N)
    34" Bass light EAD tuned EAD: 115.3 lbs (513 N)
    34" Bass light EAD tuned DGC: 91.6 lbs (408 N)

    The longer neck really has more to bend though.

    http://www.daddario.com/Resources/JDCDAD/images/tension_chart.pdf
  • Ben July 2, 2010 at 12:38pm
    The Bass tuners are obviously more expensive but very easy to work with. I'd like to put in my vote for a 2-stringer. Bass strings are quite a beast to deal with and have a good deal of "pull" to bow your neck. 2 strings = less tension. Plus, you can play just about everything you need to with 2 strings. Finally, if you buy a set of 4 tuners, then you have enough for 2 basses (or 3 if the other two are just 1-stringers). Good luck!

    BigAndy said:
    Thanks guys -

    I will purchase some Bass tuners - seems to be the way to go - although I am really cheap and writing this with gritted teeth at the thought of parting with the cash

    Yeah have a go with teak if you get the chance - I'm not a woodworker either but I actually think it's easy to work with and the tone on the couple of CBG's I have made with it is really warm and mellow - even a bit Bassy

    Don - I wa thinking up-right but wan't sure - think you have helped convince me. I will defo post some pics on how i get on (uless it goes completely wrong)
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