i have been doing all my building with hand tools and am looking to buy a saw to make things a little easier on me - which would be more useful? it would be used exclusively for making cbgs - would these $125 or so jobs at lowes, etc. do the job?
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I have the use of both. I have a good used craftsman bandsaw and an ok mikita portable tablesaw, my dad has a really nice old craftsman table saw that I use. I would say look for good used or really good sales and get the bandsaw first, then look for a good tablesaw. The portable mikita is ok, but the real thing is so much better, if you have the space. My next tool is going to be a good drill press. The more tools you have the more creative and better quality your builds will get. You can do alot with very little, but so much more with the right tools. Buy the best you can afford (like JUJU's awsome bandsaw) and hope they last for life (my dads tablesaw was his fathers first, dad is now 80).
Very well said. Whether you make cbgs , furniture, toys or what ever, the safety rules are the same.
Jim Mitchell said:
Hey there, have you been on Craigslist ? I have seen some older 12 and 14" bandsaws in the price range you are talking about. Some of the worlds best luthiers have used that old craftsman 12 inch bandsaw. I have seen older table saws go for $50.00 that would do everything you need, that are a lot better saws then they sell at the box stores. Don't get me wrong I am not knocking Ryobi or that Porter Cable bandsaw (I suggested my neighbor buy the PC, it's a great buy). I am just saying if you are on a budget you can pick up good tools that will serve you well. Mind you will probably need to clean them up and adjust them, but that is a great way to learn about your machines. There is a lot of information out there on the safe use of woodworking tools Fine Woodworking magazine has some great videos on how to set machines up, as well as many other sights on the web.. I can tell you that I have 2 bandsaws (Laguna 16 HD I use to resaw and a 10" Craftsman (Rikon) that I use to cut out headstocks, rough cut out necks etc. I use the table saw to cut scarf joints, cross cuts (Slotting fingerboards) and some ripping. Having both allows a great deal of flexibility. I have been at this a while so over the years I have built a really great shop. But 30 years ago when I first started I bought pretty much everything second hand. It is another option that a lot of woodworkers use to get their start. Please do yourself a big favor and make certain that you understand how to use power tools safely. I have heard many stories about a tablesaw sending a 2x4 through drywall because of kickback, a good friend of mine cut off part of his finger on his bandsaw. (and he is a world class woodturner). Last story my uncle lost part of his hand on a shaper working without guards, in a hurry while he was tired.... Not everyone that works wood gets hurt knowing what the rules are and following them increases your odds of staying safe. Hey I know there are a lot of people here that know way more than I do so this is just my opinion on one way to skin the cat if you convinced that you want to get into woodworking in a bigger way. Hope it helps the cause.
Hey there, have you been on Craigslist ? I have seen some older 12 and 14" bandsaws in the price range you are talking about. Some of the worlds best luthiers have used that old craftsman 12 inch bandsaw. I have seen older table saws go for $50.00 that would do everything you need, that are a lot better saws then they sell at the box stores. Don't get me wrong I am not knocking Ryobi or that Porter Cable bandsaw (I suggested my neighbor buy the PC, it's a great buy). I am just saying if you are on a budget you can pick up good tools that will serve you well. Mind you will probably need to clean them up and adjust them, but that is a great way to learn about your machines. There is a lot of information out there on the safe use of woodworking tools Fine Woodworking magazine has some great videos on how to set machines up, as well as many other sights on the web.. I can tell you that I have 2 bandsaws (Laguna 16 HD I use to resaw and a 10" Craftsman (Rikon) that I use to cut out headstocks, rough cut out necks etc. I use the table saw to cut scarf joints, cross cuts (Slotting fingerboards) and some ripping. Having both allows a great deal of flexibility. I have been at this a while so over the years I have built a really great shop. But 30 years ago when I first started I bought pretty much everything second hand. It is another option that a lot of woodworkers use to get their start. Please do yourself a big favor and make certain that you understand how to use power tools safely. I have heard many stories about a tablesaw sending a 2x4 through drywall because of kickback, a good friend of mine cut off part of his finger on his bandsaw. (and he is a world class woodturner). Last story my uncle lost part of his hand on a shaper working without guards, in a hurry while he was tired.... Not everyone that works wood gets hurt knowing what the rules are and following them increases your odds of staying safe. Hey I know there are a lot of people here that know way more than I do so this is just my opinion on one way to skin the cat if you convinced that you want to get into woodworking in a bigger way. Hope it helps the cause.
I've definitely got to look into this. I have the Skil bench model and blade flex is a bitch on that thing. Even with a new blade with proper tension, it cuts to the left like crazy. I have to cut crooked as hell on that thing to keep it on the line. Plus, my throat depth and max cut depth are not what I'd like. I'll probably end up getting a floor model like this some time next year.
william McCauley said:
You get what you pay for, especially with tools.
Mama Mojo said:
I've got to go with the floor model band saw. I had a Ryobi benchtop and found it limiting in many ways - and then it just up and broke on me about a month ago - the top wheel stuck and could not be budged even by the sales tech at home depot. I've got a luthier who works at my home depot who is very helpful and he actually steered me to lowes for their Porter-Cable floor model. He didn't recommend the Skil model at home depot. I got a Kreg rip fence for it online for much less than the one dedicated to either machine and couldn't be happier with it. The other thing my luthier home depot tech suggested was "Cool Blocks" to swap with the metal guides in the machine because the cool blocks can be pushed together and keep the blade from moving and you don't have to worry about adjusting them each time you change blades, etc. I also use a bi-metal blade in it most of the time so I can easily cut metal when needed. So far, I am very happy with the Porter-Cable for the price. It runs in the low $400. dollar range, but if you go to your local post office and pick up a "moving packet" you'll have a 10% off coupon that will bring the price down in the high $300 range. And, if you are close to Delaware, go for some of our wholesome tax-free shopping!!!!
I've got to go with the floor model band saw. I had a Ryobi benchtop and found it limiting in many ways - and then it just up and broke on me about a month ago - the top wheel stuck and could not be budged even by the sales tech at home depot. I've got a luthier who works at my home depot who is very helpful and he actually steered me to lowes for their Porter-Cable floor model. He didn't recommend the Skil model at home depot. I got a Kreg rip fence for it online for much less than the one dedicated to either machine and couldn't be happier with it. The other thing my luthier home depot tech suggested was "Cool Blocks" to swap with the metal guides in the machine because the cool blocks can be pushed together and keep the blade from moving and you don't have to worry about adjusting them each time you change blades, etc. I also use a bi-metal blade in it most of the time so I can easily cut metal when needed. So far, I am very happy with the Porter-Cable for the price. It runs in the low $400. dollar range, but if you go to your local post office and pick up a "moving packet" you'll have a 10% off coupon that will bring the price down in the high $300 range. And, if you are close to Delaware, go for some of our wholesome tax-free shopping!!!!
crrection - the home depot floor model 14" bandsaw is a Rigid, now a Skil.... my bad....
Mama Mojo said:
I've got to go with the floor model band saw. I had a Ryobi benchtop and found it limiting in many ways - and then it just up and broke on me about a month ago - the top wheel stuck and could not be budged even by the sales tech at home depot. I've got a luthier who works at my home depot who is very helpful and he actually steered me to lowes for their Porter-Cable floor model. He didn't recommend the Skil model at home depot. I got a Kreg rip fence for it online for much less than the one dedicated to either machine and couldn't be happier with it. The other thing my luthier home depot tech suggested was "Cool Blocks" to swap with the metal guides in the machine because the cool blocks can be pushed together and keep the blade from moving and you don't have to worry about adjusting them each time you change blades, etc. I also use a bi-metal blade in it most of the time so I can easily cut metal when needed. So far, I am very happy with the Porter-Cable for the price. It runs in the low $400. dollar range, but if you go to your local post office and pick up a "moving packet" you'll have a 10% off coupon that will bring the price down in the high $300 range. And, if you are close to Delaware, go for some of our wholesome tax-free shopping!!!!
I've got to go with the floor model band saw. I had a Ryobi benchtop and found it limiting in many ways - and then it just up and broke on me about a month ago - the top wheel stuck and could not be budged even by the sales tech at home depot. I've got a luthier who works at my home depot who is very helpful and he actually steered me to lowes for their Porter-Cable floor model. He didn't recommend the Skil model at home depot. I got a Kreg rip fence for it online for much less than the one dedicated to either machine and couldn't be happier with it. The other thing my luthier home depot tech suggested was "Cool Blocks" to swap with the metal guides in the machine because the cool blocks can be pushed together and keep the blade from moving and you don't have to worry about adjusting them each time you change blades, etc. I also use a bi-metal blade in it most of the time so I can easily cut metal when needed. So far, I am very happy with the Porter-Cable for the price. It runs in the low $400. dollar range, but if you go to your local post office and pick up a "moving packet" you'll have a 10% off coupon that will bring the price down in the high $300 range. And, if you are close to Delaware, go for some of our wholesome tax-free shopping!!!!
That odd...Ive had two of the Ryobi bandsaws. The first one was about 5-6 years ago it seems and its guide were the straight bar kind. That thing wondered like a drunk man on Saturday night. It was the saddest imposter of a Bandsaw Id had ever seen. Well I lost that bandsaw in my divorce. ( I dont miss her or the bandsaw) When it came time to buy a new one I bought the newer model Ryobi and it has the bearing guides and it cuts as smooth and straight as any high end model I have ever used...I wouldnt trade it for the world.
Im a big fan of Ryobi tools in general. I have the bandsaw above, The Ryobi 12" bentop drill press, belt/disc sander, trim router, and an entire asortment of thier 18 volt cordless tools. I dont complain about any of them. They have outlasted many of the other brandname tools Ive owned. L.J. said:
my 10" ryobi drifts constantly. I have tried everything available on the machine and cannot get it to stop. I bought new blades but they only offer 1 type at the depot for it. And it seems I can only use the thinnest blades available due to the size of the machine. It is still a helpful tool for me but I remember our big industrial size bandsaws back in my schooldays being much easier to make a straight cut.
The model I have will not let me adjust the outer side bearings in anymore than they are. I noticed the newer model doesnt have bearings on the side of the blades but instead has 2 shafts that you can adjust. Do you think I need to look into those shafts? a better blade? It doesnot fit a wider blade. Any suggestions?
Michael R Cossey said:
FYI..with most if not all table top / bench top even floor model power tools especially a Band Saw may/will take some setup time to get a square non drifting cut.....
Replies
Jim Mitchell said:
william McCauley said:
Mama Mojo said:
Mama Mojo said:
Im a big fan of Ryobi tools in general. I have the bandsaw above, The Ryobi 12" bentop drill press, belt/disc sander, trim router, and an entire asortment of thier 18 volt cordless tools. I dont complain about any of them. They have outlasted many of the other brandname tools Ive owned. L.J. said:Cheers Rin
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