I've got an old Burgess BK3 band saw coming my way which will need a new blade. I'm looking for some advice regarding the most appropriate general use blades. 1/4" or 3/8" - tpi etc. What is best for various applications? 
Thanks in anticipation.... :)

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  • Cheers Jim, Skeesix and Michael -
    Some good advice there. Much appreciated.
  • Hah, mine just broke part way thru cutting a neck profile. I snagged an old one from my dads shop, it was from my grandfathers tools so its really old. Nice to have a new blade, now I can even cut a straight line! Would not trade my bandsaw away, what a great tool to have.

    Skeesix said:
    Buy two blades, so you'll have a backup when the first one breaks - which it will invariably do right in the middle of an important project. Ask me how I know this - lol.
  • Buy two blades, so you'll have a backup when the first one breaks - which it will invariably do right in the middle of an important project. Ask me how I know this - lol.
  • Hey Lost tone, sorry for the late response I have been away for a while. About a month ago there was an article in one of the woodworking magazines (Popular woodworking, I believe) recommending blades from "SuperCut Bandsaw Co. www.supercutbandsaw.com or 800-356-9918. I have two bandsaws one is the new style Craftsman 10 inch and the other is the Laguna 16hd. I use a blade from Sulfolk Machinery on the Laguna mostly for resawing (very expensive). However they are a great company. But for the Craftsman I decided to try out the new blades. They are cheap and worked great. One other comment is performance is greatly impacted by set up. There are a number of resources on setting up bandsaws some of the better articles are by Michael Fortune and Mark Dugenski (sp). A friend of mine actually took a class with him Fortune, he told me that Michael can make an inexpensive machine do all the things we would ask of a bandsaw. The folks at Fine woodworking are a pretty good resource for instructional information. Good luck
  • Cheers MichaelS and Matt. Good tips - I'll definitely be looking into how to set the saw up when it arrives. Thanks again.
  • I agree with Matt, set it up corectly. I got a freebie band saw and couldn't cut staight or 90 degrees up and down. I googled set up and now it cuts fine, even with the blade it came with. : ) Good luck band saws are great to have.
  • Also google " how to set up a bandsaw" and follow the instuctions ... this will help greatly.

    Matt
  • Thanks for the advice carverman. I expect to be using it for finer work more than ripping so I'll probably do what roosterman suggests and get a fine tooth metal cutting blade and see how I get on. Thanks again for the useful info :-)
  • Band saw blades are a comprimize depending on what you are using them for. The smaller the blade and
    the more teeth per inch means that you can do a finer cut around tighter curves, but it's not going to
    do a straight line without wandering. If you are thinking of ripping stock lumber, then you need an
    adjustable rip fence and a ripping blade which is typically 6 teeth per inch vs the standard crosscut
    blade which is around 10 teeth per inch. You can rip stock with a fine tooth blade, but you have
    to go extremely slowly because the blade will basically burn it's way through the cut.

    The other thing is blade tension and blade guides. Most standard guides are steel and it's harder
    on the blade than self lubricating "cool blocks"..blade tension, blade guides and the type of blade
    is the key to good bandsawing. A 3/8 blade is good for ripping but may have difficulty around
    tight corners. A quarter inch blade accomodates tight corners but wanders in the cut.
  • Thanks Ben & Michael - good advice, much appreciated :)
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