has anyone ever had any luck with hanger wire frets? tired a test run with some scrap wood and wasn't really happy with the turn out. even with wood glue/crazy glue i didn't think they'd hold out will with any playing, let alone aggresive playing. if theres a better way to do this, i'm not seeing it.

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  • I seen a few people use 6d finishing nails, looks like a good idea but i haven't tried it yet.
  • I've done it. Worked fine. Won't do it again.

     

    Here's the deal. If you are only gonna build one or 2 guitars go head and do it ... just use lots of glue.

    If you think you're gonna build a few, buy the 9 dollar saw at Harbor Freight, medium/medium fretwire for less than 7 bucks from CB Gitty, and do it right.

     

    It's quicker, easier, works better and will last longer if done right.

     

    That being said ..... The easiest alternative I've used was a hacksaw (with the tooth width sanded down a bit) and the flat backside leg of bobby pins/hair pins. If I remember correctly, it was a good tap in fit.

     

     

    AFKAM

  • not to hijack this thread or anything, but here's a good follow up question... what do you think is the best glue/ epoxy for attaching makeshift wire frets to the fret board?
  • thanks Sharecropper and Diane! i'd prefer to use real frets, but'll cash is tight at the moment, i was diggin around looking for scraps. thats for the tip about the tung oil as well sharecropper, i'm new to woodworking. just did a fretless neck with a coat of poly on it. it turned out well but i did notice is has a "sticky" touch to it.
  • I used 3/8 inch cotter pins. the brass ones and the zinc coated ones are the easiest to cut. the stainless steel ones are really hard to cut.

    I sawed in a shallow trench with my miter saw and set the cotter pin on the trench.

    but, yes, "real" fretwire is much easier to work with, and gives a more consistent result. and you can get it in brass/gold tone, too.
  •  I've used the the brass rods Mark speaks of on 4 or 5 builds .  I've super glued them in then covered the fretboard with polyurethane to help keep them in.  I've always have to tweak them quite a bit to get them all level with each other and often re glue frets back in when, or add glue, after adjusting them or filing them.....before covering the neck with polyurethane. When done the brass rods work very well and look like "real frets".   That being said I now ,when ever possible, use REAL FRETS .  They ARE MUCH EASIER to work with.  I then cover the fret board with tung oil when done .  The tung oil makes the fret board feel like silk compared to polyurethane .       On my next rustic build I am considering useing staples, one underneath each string , as "Wade"......?  ,on this site, has done .        
  • right on mark, thats something i'll keep in mind as well. there has to be a model plane shop around here somewhere. thx man!
  • I found a very nice material at a hobby shop that caters to the model-airplane crowd.  They had a whole rack of small-scale metal bits, including very fine brass rod stock and tubing ranging from about 1/8" down to 1/16".

    You can get enough to make an average guitar neck for just a few bucks.... Easier to cut than steel nails and dead straight.

  • right on man, thx Oily! as soon as i get some extra cash, i'll experiment with that.
  • Grease,
    I use galvanized finishing nails, cut a fret groove, then epoxy 'em into the groove.
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