Merry Christmas to all
i have built about 15 cbg's but have not angled the neck/fretboard back as noted in some build discussions.
Please advise of how to complete and what is considered an angle that would assist in string tightness and bowing.
I assume a build up at the bridge end at the bottom of the box is one way, but how would that affect other fitting?
thanks
Replies
A lower saddle diminishes the sound from the strings, this is easily notice when necks are warped and people install a lower saddle to attempt to lower the action. Having a neck angled, yes, raises the bridge, but without sacrificing action, saddles can be raised or lowered to create comfortable playing action and optimum tone and sustain, raising your saddle and increasing the string height too much can cause intonation problems when fretting.
Yes a lower saddle will effect the output of sound from the guitar, but not from the sound of strings themselves. I suggest it is from a lack of downward pressure on the saddle by the strings due to a changed break angle ( less angle). One neads to have good contact of saddle/ bridge to the top as it is the vibrating top that contributes greatly to the sound.
lowering the saddle will lower string tension/pitch, but we tune up to the desired pitch after lowering.
Too much break angle can also have a detrimental effect ( too much downward pressure on a bridge.
When I lower a saddle I always change (increase) the break angle, where possible, if I can't change it I don't lower the saddle.
cheers Taff
All that angling the neck does is raise the bridge height. If you want a taller bridge, then you can simply install the neck parallel to the top of the box but just raise it a little above the top face of the box. It makes no difference to string tension or whether the neck will bow. It does help with getting a good break angle over the bridge.
Absolutely right, a lot of people think it helps with bowing, or string tightness, has absolutely nothing to do with it, take from CkickenboneJohn here whom has had more than 900+ instruments built to his credit!!
Hey, if you've built 15 or so already, why no photo albums of your builds in your profile, we love-em pics
Almost Christmas, Merry to you and your Family!
Just added some pics including a three string tribute cbg for the Ramones
Like K said, 2-3 degrees is a good back angle, I make the center support in my box compensate for the angle by cutting it at the desired angle, so my neck, whether it be a bolt on, or glued together it has the desired angle, if one piece, you can make a wedge that matches the surface of the one piece neck and it will go under the neck in the box, sandwiched together, glues/screwed together.
It makes it easy to substitute your typical nut for a zero fret, and give you a very attainable lower action, gives you more adjustment at the bridge/saddle as it will now have to be higher to compensate for the rise.
Many have commented on the better play-ability and quality of the instrument.
you can see the difference where the neck enters the box, after I mounted a separate piece in the box for the neck to bolt onto, I angled the box at my compound slider saw with a shim underneath the box as it rest on the table, and when I pulled my saw through the box to cut my slot it cut deeper at the exit point of the box compared to further inside the box, creating the angle. many ways to achieve the angle, different height blocks at each end of the neck inside the box if not mounted flush to the bottom.
I think 2 or 3 degrees is the norm but I'm a novice so don't take my word for it.
I do it with 2.5mm thick washers between the neck and the top of the box on the nut end of the box. I don't know what the exact angle I get is, but it's very slight. I just eyeball it and pray but so far so good. lol