Is someone done same works without fret file and nut file ?

What tools he or she have used. Right now I don't have fret or nut files.

No one selling these in estonia. I thinking do I have to buy this or not. I have to to buy outside the estonia. 12" compound radius sanding block would be also helpful. This also I can't buy from estonia. Maybe someone can make it for me in estonia. 

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I use a regular flat file to dress the cut ends of the frets and that works well. Nut slots can be cut with a small saw or if you can get them, welder tip cleaning tools work OK but take a lot of time. These are like small round files and not expensive.

I have not done radius fretboards.

I think you could probably use a block plane to radius the fretboard. You would check the radius with a radius gauge which you can easily make yourself out of cardboard or thin plastic. This is probably how they did it back on the old days. I had a 100 old Gibson guitar which had a fretboard that looked like it was done like this way (you could still see some flat sections on it especially on the upper end).

I was researching sanding blocks for myself and there were various homemade solutions, including using a section of plastic pipe. Some people build them up out of several sections of 12" radius wood. Do a google search for "homemade radius sanding block" and you'll find lots of ideas.

For nuts, a combination of thin saw blades and small thin files will probably work. You might be able to find these kind of small tools at a hobby shop?


Try contacting these guys:
You can dress the fret ends with a belt sander. It is faster than a flat file and no nicks in the fret board.

I am building zero fret designs so I do not have to cut a nut. I have to cut a wood string guide. I mark it off and start with a little hobby saw to open the slot. For thicker strings I open that slot more with a hack saw. For the thickest strings,,I open it yet again with a standard wood hand saw.

You can make radius sanding blocks. Mark and carve a positive ( like the outside of a pipe). Glue sandpaper on the positive and then use it to sand out a negative in another piece of wood. Glue sandpaper to that amd you have your radius sanding block. I did a 12" and a 16". I find I use the 16" the most on 4 string builds.

I am just finishing up a 6 string. My radius blocks,were too narrow for the neck so I radiused it freehand with a belt sander.

Hope this helps

I'm afraid I haven't attempted a radiused fretboard yet, but I don't have a nut or fret file either.

To file down the fret ends, I take a good flat file out of its handle and run it along the side of the neck to trim the ends, changing the angle slightly to get the right downward curve at the end of the frets. Then I sand flat along the side of the fretboard until I can't feel the metal as I run my finger along and this seems to work fine. I don't actually round off the ends of the frets, but I would be amazed if anyone managed to gash themselves playing one of my guitars.

For the nut I just use a small triangular file, provided you make sure the contact point of the string is very small, and the slots slope downwards towards the tuners, there shouldn't be any buzzing... I've tried using the welder torch cleaners CB Gitty sells but found them very faffy, and the result seems just as good with the file.

Hope this helps!

This is what I use to dress the fret ends, the work great for starting the slots in nuts and saddles too. Just need a rotary tool.     I use them for a host of different jobs, cutting bone blanks for nuts and saddles. The surface of the larger disc are great for shaping bone. Cuts metal such as bolts .....something I never use

Aye, dremels the ticket... Even the cheap thin ceramic grinding discs are very effective for nut and saddle slots.. A dremel is the first power tool you really need in this hobby imho

I use a small triangle diamond file to start on my brass or bone nuts and finish with a torch tip cleaner. That being said I just got some small files from axemasters off ebay and they seem like the will be better than the tip cleaner. I'm in the process of making some small handles for them. Axemasters sell a jewelers frame for the files but I didn't want to have to change files every time I did a different slot and the handles are expensive to buy for each file. I think I can I make something that will work and not have to change frames all the time. The best bet is to bite the bullet and buy official nut files but they are very expensive for a hobbyist to have as they are so specialized.  

I recently purchased one of the Precision Router Bases from Stewart MacDonald.  I absolutely love it. I attach my Dremel tool to it and can do frets, nuts, bridges.  Shape all kinds of things.  Lots of bits available to use with it.  Someday, after I sell some other item, I will purchase a Foredom Rotary Tool to use with it.  

I have the older model from a few years ago...their great for doing inlay work. Best to get the down cut router bits though for a clean cut.

Nut files are nice if you want a tight fit. You can make a fret file, just get a 5 or 6 in. triangle file and file grind or sand the three edges smooth. You can file the fret without the edge cutting into the fret board. More tool trick in this book, this is a great book I have had two and this is where I turn when I have a tough fix. Not only will this book tell you how to fix any guitar problem it will make you a better builder.



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