Alternative Fretboards

Does anyone have any experience using non-standard wood for fingerboards? For example, I know maple needs to be sealed... rosewood and ebony do not. My problem is when I start getting into woods that aren't "typically" used as fingerboards. Does anyone know which woods need sealed, which don't, etc etc? And, while we're on the subject, what do you use on your fingerboards?

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  • Nathan, one of the nicest things I've found is Minwax Wipe-On Poly in satin or gloss and available at Lowes or Home Depot. It is easy to use, seals well, resist hand oils and doesn't create residue.
  • That`s a great link!
    I recently did a build with a wenge fretboard and every detail mentioned in their description was perfectly true.

    I once used apple wood for a mandolin neck which went very well,

    Nathan King said:
    FYI, here's a decent resource for various woods used, their tonal characteristics, and if you have to finish them. Cool!

    http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx
  • FYI, here's a decent resource for various woods used, their tonal characteristics, and if you have to finish them. Cool!

    http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx
  • My last build (which was only #2 for me so I'm certainly not an authority) I used walnut for the fretboard and used the tung oil mentioned earlier. It turned out nice but I suppose time will tell.
  • it really depends on how oily the wood is naturaly. btw on thing you need to watch when using wood with high oils in them is gluing they are much harder to glue. but here is a tip if you want a more natural feel to the fret board try tung oil instead of laquer or poly. it soaks in and has a nice natural feel.
  • As far as I am aware all woods can do with some kind of attention. I use oak and other australian hard woods, even recycled or reclaimed woods and have tried stains, varnishes, paints, laquors, oils and alternative building materials such as perspex. After conferring with the nationites the product universally approved of seemed to be Danish oil applied with 400 grit sandpaper. I now use this exclusively on necks, bridges and fretboards and am always amazed with the results.
  • Don't put much stock in this, because I don't play but the only thing I have put on fret boards is Mylands Sanding Sealer. Not sure why other than I figured varnish and such would wear through and not look good after a while. This sealer seems to put a nice finish on and I think it can be reapplied at any time.
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