Forums

Air Gap Between Box Top and Neck?

Posted by Tom T on October 24, 2014 at 3:12pm in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion

I've seen (on line of course) a couple of CBGs where the builder created a small (1/8") gap between the top of the box and the neck (pass-through neck). I think this was done to allow the box top to resonate better when strings are played and the vibration is transferred through the bridge.

Anyone familiar with this technique? Has anyone tried it? Any thoughts?

Thanks

Tom T

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –
Follow

Replies

  • Bluesheart October 30, 2014 at 3:04pm

    I meant I use the staple trick for scarf joint glue ups.

    • Tom T > Bluesheart October 30, 2014 at 5:00pm

      The tips I get on this site are fantastic. I got three good tips for keeping a scarf joint glue up from creeping:

      1. The staple trick.

      2. The cut off tack trick.

      3. The salt trick.

      I have a lot more confidence in gluing up a scarf joint after reading about these tips.

      Thanks to all.

  • Bluesheart October 30, 2014 at 2:51pm

    I use the staple trick and it works very well for me, I learned it here, prob from Oily!

  • robert jones October 24, 2014 at 4:59pm

    Here's a pic of one of my necks ready to be inserted into the box.

    By stacking the neck this way the through portion of the neck floats in the middle of the box leaving an approx. 3/4" gap from the top, sufficient for good acoustic play or the insertion of a standard depth mag pup.

    The ends of both the top and bottom are 87 degrees giving a 3 degree back angle to the neck when screwed into the box.

    This way is a little easier than cutting or chiseling a relief plus it is a stronger neck. I only overlap the top and bottom pieces by 1 1/2" but with proper glue up the joint won't fail.

    306362149?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    • The Phrygian Kid > robert jones October 24, 2014 at 5:16pm
      That's nice work
      • robert jones > The Phrygian Kid October 24, 2014 at 5:40pm

        Thanks.

    • Tom T > robert jones October 24, 2014 at 5:11pm

      Quick question. You mention "proper" glue. What are you using?

      Thanks

      TT

      • robert jones > Tom T October 24, 2014 at 5:40pm

        ..."proper glue up"... ;-) 

        The glue brand isn't so critical as I've never had any modern wood glue fail though I prefer Titebond II and Elmer's Max because of the working characteristics.

        A proper glue up is attained through surface prep and clamping.

        The Phyrgian Kid's style necks from the other thread are really good if building a 4 to 6 string because the extra wood in the through part helps balances the tuners.

        • Tom T > robert jones October 24, 2014 at 5:53pm

          Thanks for the clarification. I've been using Titebond II.

          I have tons of good wood clamps, but continue to struggle with getting a good, tight clamp on scarf joints without slipping. Clamping the long part of the neck to the work bench, then positioning the head stock with a block to keep it from sliding might work, but I haven't tried it yet. Any suggestions for keeping scarf joints stable when clamped?

          Thanks

          Tom T

          • Uncle Fred > Tom T October 29, 2014 at 5:05pm

            I keep a table salt shaker in my glue area.  A few grains of salt on the glue surface at each end of the surface will keep the pieces from sliding around when clamped.  I use it every time I do a glue up.  You can still force an adjustment but the pieces will not slide around as you tighten the clamps.

This reply was deleted.