A big wine box

Hello again,

I'm working on my "prototype" wine box, which is actually quite big. When I chose a 23'' saddle length, it look likes the bridge is too far from the end/bottom of the box (not a big issue but it's less sexy)

I've also issues with my strings which nearly too short (my headstock is also a bit long, already cropped it otherwise I couldn't attach the strings).

I'm also wondering about the angle between the end of the box and the bridge which will maybe be too small.

Moving the string anchors next to the bridge could help with the string lengths, but not with the guitar ergonomics, and I'm not sure about the resistance of the lid for the traction of the strings.

Maybe it's just my saddle length which is poorly chosen ?

In summary: 

1/ Can you give me advice on how I can improve my current setup without changing everything ?

2/ Do you know what I can do in my next build when using that kind of big wine box ?

Thank you so much in advance,

Ben

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Replies

  • Hi again, yes would be good to not use plywood for a fingerboard, I would think that the wood quality of the inner plies would not grip the fret tang well enough, unless glue is used also, in the slot.

    Taff

  • Hi, Ben, That's good, glad to help.
    Taff

  • Cut a 5 degree angle on the part of the neck inside the box (on the upper part).  This will angle the neck back and give you more bridge height/break angle.  You can move the neck further into the box.  Maybe cut out the lid to give you upper frets?  Or lose a few frets?  

    You can just see the angle on this neck (look closely at the glue line between the two wood pieces). 9593543089?profile=RESIZE_710x

  • here's a 3-bottle wine box 6-string guitar i made as you can see the neck extend's into the box 7 fret's, it's a 24 1/2" scale length, this allow's the bridge to be placed well toward's the end of the box,

    the second picture show's the height the neck need's to be in relation to the top of the box, hope this help's you a bit,

    DSCF0212-1.jpg

    wbg2.JPG

    • Your projects are really nice ! Thanks, each time I get an answer or see a example it clarify a bit more the puzzle :-)

  • Hi again, I have a bit more time now, so this what I would do.

    I'll leave you to work out the smaller details, these are the major changes.

    Remove the frets
    Make another fretboard fret for the same scale or longer, say 25"
    Either way position the nut or zero fret on the neck so that the bridge position sits on the P U area of the box top.
    Glue the new fingerboard on top of the old. This will give you a higher bridge and a better break angle to the tailpiece.
    What is left north of the nut is peghead.
    Consider your string length issue when laying out the fingerboard.
    The P U position I would consider good for that size box.

    Your fretboard will lay on top of box top by three or four or more frets
    Your new fingerboard may start at the position of the third or fourth frets.

    If this works for this build use it for the next one.
    The top will better transfer string action into soundwaves within the box if securely fitted to the sides.
    Cheers Taff
    • Ahah nice, didn't think on simply add a new fretboard over the existing one, really good idea !

      Maybe I'll even find something nicer thank plywood, I'll try something based on your ideas which... gave me ideas

  • Bring your fingerboard closer to the bridge by overlapping the last four five frets over the body. Then move the bridge back. Use either a pinned bridge or longer tailpiece.

    Taff

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