Here's how I carve my guitar necks, whether it's our inexpensive workshop series or a top of the line custom guitar , they all get carved by hand. I use a spokeshave for most of the work, and a "Microplane" file and a half-round rasp to work the transitions at the headstock and the heel. Using a spokeshave is quick , easy, quiet and safe, and leaves the neck ready for final sanding.

I don't use any special jigs or profiles guides, it's all done by eye and by the feel of the neck in the hand. Having two spokeshaves is useful, one set for a fairly coarse shaving, the other set to take finer shavings, but you can easily manage with just one, as long as it is sharpened and set-up right. I did buy a concave spokeshave with the intention on using on the headstock and heel transitions, but I've found it to be of limited use..maybe I haven't given it enough time or practice yet.

The Japanese "Shinto" rasp is a handy tool, but can't compare to the speed and ease of use of the spokeshave. The big advantage of the spokeshave is that you are cutting the wood, planing it rather than abrading it, so it leaves a nice clean, smooth finish for final sanding.

It's essential to get the neck firmly clamped to the workbench. I find the bench clamps (from Axminster Tools) work great, but you can do much the same thing with ordinary G-clamps at the edge of your workbench or table. A simple prop wedged under the headstock end of the neck allows you to put on enough pressure to get the tools to cut properly with out causing undue flexing of the neck.