String the instrument. It's easier to see and also fix slots (if the cut begins to go a bit wonky).
You can also get a feel for where the fingers will go if the strings are already on it.
Mark them with a craft knife/blade. That little cut will hold the strings loosely and let you see where everything sits.
Do everything slowly.
Thanks for responding!
I'm sure people will jump in soon with other ideas. Probably better than mine. The thing is to mix and match what works for you.
Thanks for responding - -sorry to sound like a luddite but I don't know what "zero fret" method is...
Hi Wayfinder - rereading your zero fret article and was wondering if you have some photos of a zero fret bridge - or more details on making one.
Thanks
thanks so much. When you finish making a zero fret bridge I'd love it if you'd post a picture. The photo of the zero fret nut above is so helpful.
I tend to agree with Wayfinder's spacing Lisa, but generally use a bit of threaded rod for my bridges and nuts, so the slots are already there.
I have about 5/16th" spacing between my strings. I usually use a bolt on CBG's, but I have used corian and always use bone on my guitars.
They make the appropriate size files for string slots that you can buy from places like Stewmac.com, but they are rather expensive. I use a small saw tooth blade to cut the slots to depth and at an angle, then I widen each slot by sliding a piece of old guitar string back and forth to cut the right width. Nut angles down towards the headstock at 5 to 7 degrees - bridge angles down toward the end of the guitar at 5 to 7 degrees. Doing this reduces the chances of having string buzz problems at the nut/bridge.
Paul- do you eyeball the nut and bridge angles 5-7 degrees or do you use a particular tool?
Thanks so much
Framing Speed Square and a metal yard stick for a straight edge.
Part of the string spacing can depend on the number of strings too.
Moot is why I tend to build all of mine fretless.
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