They way I have things working in my mind are as follows,,,lol.
I want to do a scarf joint. But I want to make the head wider with a solid piece of wood. I assume there would be no issues with this.
If I'm thinking this through right, I want to cut my head to shape and drill the holes for the tuners. Then glue it to the neck. Any issues with that. I think I can just use center lines to line the head and neck up.
That being said, I'm using some old vintage Grover Imperial tuners I found. I know they are way over kill. But I just really like the look. How thick do I need to make the head. Is there a range. Here's the actual vintage tuners I'm getting and some specs I found for the new reproductions that Grover is selling as "reintroduced"
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A lot of the tuners I use require a headstock thickness of 3/4 inch or less so the holes for the strings are completely exposed and that there is room for any bushings you might be using. Somewhere between 1/2 and 5/8 should be fine.
What Dan said, I shoot for 0.6'-0.7" when thinning my headstocks. 1/2" is a little small.
The headstock thickness is dictated by the tuners you want to use. You want the bevel in the end of the capstan (string winding post) to be proud of the bushing so that 3 to 4 wraps of your thickest gauge string doesn't touch the bushing and the bushing is not touching the shoulder of the wormgear housing.
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