I finally made a near perfect cut of a wine bottle neck using a jig and the hot/cold water technique. I'm wondering now about the best way to smooth the cut edge. I usually use a Dremmel with a grinding wheel but that is dangerous and gets fine glass dust everywhere including your lungs and eyes even though I use a mask and goggles.
Does anyone know if a propane torch gets hot enough to melt the cut edge so it will be smooth and rounded like commercially made glass slides are?
I Know I can just try it but I figure someone here has already.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Bluesheart
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I used a bench grinder with a fine stone on it, followed by a grinder with cloth wheels and jewelers rouge on them. Worked on and off of it for several hours. I went to use it a couple of days later, fumbled it and it hit the tile floor and splattered into about 3 pieces. I recommend a 3/4 or 11/16x 1/2' drive socket. They bounce and roll when dropped (;D)
I used to work in a glass plant where we made toughened glass panels. The edges always had to be linished. We used special belt sanders, but with the addition of lots of water, thats what stops the glass particles getting in your lungs (lethal) and the abrasive cuts faster too with added water. You might get away with using a large brick or concrete block, again, with plenty of water, perhaps submerge it in a plastic bowl, rub the glass neck on it?
I'm guessing that the manufactured ones use a gas flame to heat the glass tube and then cut it rather than scoring and snapping? Unless they are made by casting in a mould? Does anyone know? They do have a good smooth finish though. I have a dunlop (213??) its my best one so far.
Glass dust is nasty--even with hand sanding.
I've had success using "emery cloth" from my local auto supply store. It's sold under various names, but it's sandpaper with some sort of "fabric" as a backing.
I am gonna' try working it under water (maybe in a 5-gallon plastic bucket). I really hate the thought of how much harm that dust can cause.
Please let us know if the propane torch works out. I don't own one, but it looks like a safer, tidier solution. Meanwhile, I've got 3 Dunlops and that's what I recommend to friends.
Maybe I am too hard on my slides, but I noticed there are hundreds of tiny dings on the outside of the glass wall after only 3 or 4 weeks of use. Is that usual? My diddley bow I use a lot has a wound string, maybe that doesnt help
I have a wet tile cutter that I used to make a number of bottle neck slides. No shortage of bottles around here. The diamond cutting wheel is constantly sprayed with water to keep it cool, so it is perfect for keeping glass dust down. Once cut, the wheel can be used to smooth the edges.
Now, while I can easily make bottle neck slides, I don't do it any more. The reason is simple: Good Dunlop pyrex slides are available from Sweetwater (and others) for around $3.50 with free shipping. For that kind of money, I'm better to buy than take the time to cut and smooth a bottle neck. Also, I've found that the Dunlops are smoother and harder than bottle necks and play better.
From a quality/cost point of view, it's hard to beat these pre-made slides.
Thanks for the tip, Tom T.
$3.50 (actually $3.79) is a better deal than the trouble I'm putting in. I could re-sell those for $4 and be ahead of the game. I only provide slides because you need 'em to play fretless guitars. I get no fun out of making them.
I do need real "broken" bottles for my own playing though. It's part of the mystique that impresses people.
It has occurred to me that selling broken glass to people could incur some liability if anyone managed to harm themselves.
Very valid point! Though for kids, I prefer a 1/2" piece of cut (and deburred) copper pipe...
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