Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Bad Finger (Eric) on January 21, 2015 at 5:01am

I use Tung Oil on maple and it works great.  Follow the directions.  Apply a little, rub it in, wait 10 mins and buff it out well.  The next day do the same thing.  Don't try to apply too much at once or it will stay sticky.  It is OK to apply right over the fret wire since it will all buff off unlike a clear coat, varnish or polyurethane that will build up on the fret wire and have to be removed.

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Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on January 21, 2015 at 7:25am

What Eric said....

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Permalink Reply by Greg Thompson on January 21, 2015 at 7:53am

I've been using Deft spray lacquer. Quick drying, easy to use, very nice finish. I do 3 or more coats.
One disadvantage is you really need a well ventilated space to do it.
I take mine to work and use a hood over the kiln to vent the fumes. (Kiln is OFF!)
I won't do it in the basement... Anymore ;)
On smaller builds like canjos, I use a water based poly brush on. No fumes, easy clean up.

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Permalink Reply by Tom Gilreath on January 22, 2015 at 3:30am

Thank you, everyone!  :)

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Permalink Reply by Bruce C on January 25, 2015 at 2:06pm

I've been trying something new for my necks and I like the results a lot.  Your mileage may vary!

After any staining is done, I apply a heavy, almost glopped-on, coat of paste wax (use fingers or a paper towel), then play a heatgun over it to melt it and let it soak in.  Don't go nuts with the heat, obviously!  Keep going over the surface and rubbing the wax in with a folded up paper towel.  Do the whole neck and fretboard (I have been finishing my necks prior to attaching them to the box - frets are in already).  Let it cool off, then rub it down some more with the towel. You can hit it lightly with the heatgun again to take care of any areas where there's still wax.  It makes a nice matte finish and it feels quite good on the hand. Get as much wax soaked in as possible.

I use Trewax brand rather than Johnson's paste wax because it has more carnuba and doesn't smell as bad. http://www.amazon.com/Trewax-Paste-Wax-Clear-12-35-Ounce/dp/B005SRV1PI

Oh, one other thing I've been doing to the backs of my necks is to "bone" them.  'What's that?', you ask...  You take a smooth metal tube, like you might use for a slide, and rub it very hard over the surface of the wood to compress the surface a bit and condense it (after waxing).  If you can hook some handles on to the metal tube to get even more pressure, go for it.  The waxed wood becomes silky smooth after boning. This method was used in woodturning, and maybe it still is for all I know.  I like the result a lot.  You don't have to do this, but give it a try on some rounded maple scrap wood or a botched neck and see how you like it.

Just my 2 cents worth. Hope you find it useful.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 25, 2015 at 2:28pm

'boning wood',hey,seems you've turned a noun into an adjective

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Permalink Reply by Bruce C on January 25, 2015 at 4:07pm

Well, I try to keep my end up.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce C on January 26, 2015 at 10:37am

Thanks for the corroboration, Wayfinder!  Nice copper work there.

I know that a large diameter hardwood dowel or even drumsticks can be used for boning wood.  I may polish a 1 foot chunk of 1 inch steel rod and try that.  Should really be able to put on some pressure leaning with both hands.

So many things to try, so little time!

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