I have actually worked out a design for making a home made one of these. See attachment below. It uses two pieces of steel. One big enough for the base. The other one on the backside. This one would be drilled for the saddle screws. A gap would be left at the bottom to accommodate ball end of the strings. Two blocks of wood would be used to keep the saddles from moving. Now i don't have to! I've just purchased one three and one four string saddled bridges. Let ya'll know what I think about them when I get em.

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A new approach here, use some exotic woods and maybe some polished alum. Thinking could look really nice.

I bought a couple of cheap hardtails from fleabay, and some 1/8" brass sheet... I plan on making brass/chrome 3 stringers from that... 

I like the simplicity of your design... no bender needed...

Thanks guys. I came up with that idea a long wile back. However with my job and hours I work it's hard to find time to build anything.

I find that my building time is a huge stress relief.  Most of my build time is staying up late on the weekends... The joy it brings is worth a little sleep deprivation!

Why didn't  I think of this before? Genius idea Cause

You can buy aluminium stock at home depot that works real nicely to

gitty is selling them now 3 stringer for $11

Thanks again everyone. I was thinking with this design you could still use it on a cigar box lid. Replace the screws that hold it down with nuts and bolts. Actually you could do that with the ones sold be C B Gitty as well. Just find the right size bolts.

Building stuff would be a great stress relief if it wasn't for the fact that I make things all day at work. Like bringing my work home with me. : )

John, I got both the three and four string bridge from C B Gitty on the way.

you guys are so lucky you've got Gitty here.

cheap to buy but postage is a killer for us on most stuffs.

Both the four and three string bridges from CB Gitty came in.

First impressions, heavy and well built. There is plenty of hight screw and all of them appear to be the same length. Every one of them moves freely in their holes.

The four string bridge. It is a string threw body bridge. However there is enough room below the saddle screws in the back to drill holes. So it is possible to modify this bridge and have the strings come from the back of the bridge. The bridge has the same spacing as a standard six string bridge. This is great for a picker like me. However if you need your strings to be farther apart for you style of slide playing please be advised. Over all it's a well made piece of machinery. I'm glad CB Gitty has them. If the need arises I'd buy one again.

The Three string bridge. This one has the same heavy quality as the first. The main difference is the string spacing. They are farther apart. From the first to third string it's just a hair (1/64) over 15/16 of an inch. What is real nice is each string saddle has TWO groves. One for each saddle hight screw. This will keep each saddle in place thew any palm muting or heavy strumming. Very well built. Although the description states this bridge is a string threw body the one I have has it's holes in the back. So the strings will stay on the top of the guitar. Ordered the three string bridge because I wanted to see if there was any difference between the two. The individual groves for each saddle hight screw is awesome. Well thought out design.

If your looking to upgrade to better intonation both of these bridges are the way to go.

Well mine came in and they do look nice. I am building a 4 string SG style guitar for a customer and this was the bridge I had been waiting for. I had an old squire bullet hard tail I used for mock up and I figured this hard tail would be some what the same ( silly me).
First I noticed on this one (4 string model) the screw holes for the saddles were drilled to high.
On every 6 hard tail I have used the holes are drilled 1/8 from base plate how ever this is drilled a whopping 1/4 from base plate.
I know an 1/8 different does not sound like much but as guitar builders we know that's a lot when getting string action low. Dropping the saddles down showed that the screw that holds the intonation screw gets angled and starts binding in the hole.
I do not know if this will make intonation adjustments hard but I do know that the small threads on that screw will not last. I might have to drill new holes as the neck is already set into place using the bullet hard tail height. We will see if the luthier gods are on my side.

Shawn, After reading your post I checked all the hard tail bridges I have. The only Fenderish one is a Squire. They all have the intonation screws about a 1/4 inch up except the Squire. These are higher up by a good 1/16 than the other bridges. This is something. These would be best used if your planning on a neck with better than a 1/4 inch hight off the body.

If you can't angle the neck what about routing the body under the bridge?

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