Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on June 14, 2013 at 3:13am

Make mine about 9/16" thick

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by DeltaglowBoy on June 14, 2013 at 3:17am

Depends on the length of the string post on your tuners. They do vary slightly especially for Ukes or violin type tuners or tapered ones. I never go less than 1/2" but prefer a bit more .... closer to 5/8". If too thin, you run the risk of the thinner wood flexing and effecting tuning stability. Place your tuner along the side of the headstock and as long as the string hole is exposed it will work ..... too much and you run the risk as described above. Wood hardness could also be a factor. Bottom line is 1/2 should work.

 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on June 14, 2013 at 4:43am

I use the standard Gitty economy tuners and they work just fine with a standard 1x2, which is 3/4 thick.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on June 14, 2013 at 7:36am

Yep, the standard tuners Gitty sells work fine witha 1x2 as Dan says. Personally I like to thin the headstock down to about 1/2" for a lighter feel and I like the look better but it is a LOT of extra work, at least on a fancier style headstock and using hand tools.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on June 14, 2013 at 7:48am

Standard sealed tuners will work down to half an inch thickness but the threaded sleeves will have to be cut back about x2 threads to fit tightly, done it dozens of times without a problem (-:

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Reeds Taylor on June 14, 2013 at 8:14am

when the threaded ferril is all the way in your tuner...measure the size from the inside of the tuner too the last thread on you ferril...and add an 1/8"....that's my method....that's if ya follow what I'm trying to explain :)

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Gary W aka Rev. Bluejeans on February 22, 2014 at 4:23am

This is a related question; it looks like WitchDr's question was answered.

I'm planning to install some of the sealed tuners, which have the threaded ferrule and a single screw.  Will these work with the standard 3/4" thickness of a 1x2, or will I need to thin down the headstock?  Thanks!

Making my first CBG (other than from a kit which started this whole obsession for me!) and will try to post pictures when finished.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on February 22, 2014 at 7:55am

I thin down the headstock to a little less than 5/8".  closer to 1/2" and the ferrule is too long...  

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Gary W aka Rev. Bluejeans on March 1, 2014 at 10:34am

Thanks to all for the comments!  I posted elsewhere, but wanted to share here as well.

I left the headstock at 3/4", but counterbored a 5/8"DIA by 3/16" deep M/L to thin the headstock right at the tuners. I used a forstner bit in a hand drill to accomplish this. Seems to have worked, and left more strength in the headstock.  Posted pictures of this first build on my page.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Rob Zamites on June 5, 2017 at 11:59am

Thanks for these pics; this is exactly what I was picturing and will implement on my next build!

Peace,

Rob

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on February 22, 2014 at 5:30am

If you don't thin down the headstock the threaded ferrule will only be about three threads into the body,the threads on cheap tuners aren't brilliant so it will be very easy to strip those few threads when you tighten up

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Reeds Taylor on February 22, 2014 at 8:16am

I don't use a scarf joint, so I cut mine down as well, it helps with tension on the nut and intonation. Sometimes I add a 1/4" piece to the backside of the head stock, after I've thinned the first bit.

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• Next ›
• Page