Hey folks. This is my first build. I have no idea what I'm doing. I went to a tobacco shop today looking for a box.  The guy acted like he didn't know what I was talking about. Not sure what that was about.

Anyway, I need a few questions answered from the experts before I can start.

 

1) Where do a get a box? Online? Store?

 

2) What size box should I get?

 

3) I was going to follow the free plans on this site for my first build, is this a good place to start or are there better instructions somewhere else?

 

4) Everything in the plans seems pretty straight forward except for the fret board layout. What is the deal with neck length and fret spacing and fretted vs. fretless?

 

5) Lastly, when it comes to sound, is acoustic or acoustic electric more desirable? And are there good instructions out there on adding a pick-up and volume knob?

 

Thanks for the help folks.  I play multiple stringed instruments and am a hobbyist carpenter but I have never attempted to build and instrument before. Any help at all would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks again,

J.D.

 

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Ok. I think i need to talk frets again for a minute. I was going to go fretless for the first build, and I still am, but I think I would still like to mark where the frets should be. I've been reading here on the site about it and Rand gave a pretty good run down but I'm still a little perplexed by it. How bout a little jabber about frets, fret marking and neck length?

Thanks!

JD

If you haven't already, check out my videos on my profile page here, they should explain some of this to you, including fretting.

 

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/video/listForContributor?screen...

 

Just checked out the videos.  Good stuff. Cleared up alot of questions.

Thanks!

Dan Sleep said:

If you haven't already, check out my videos on my profile page here, they should explain some of this to you, including fretting.

 

http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/video/listForContributor?screen...

 

I've found ebay to be my best source of boxes. My local tobacconist promises to keep boxes but never has any.

I've used a few 35mm slide boxes recently and found that theyare great for guitar making and not too expensive on ebay.

The "keep it simple" wont make sense until you have done it.

 

I'm neither a musician nor a craftsman (nor a tpyst).

 

I've made 2 CBGs:

#1 was very much based on the free plans here " How to Build a 3-String Cigar Box Guitar"

3 strings, thru neck pine from an old bunk bed, box from local cigar shop, threaded bar for nut and bridge, basic 3 in a row tuners, piezo disk and jack, marker pen frets

 

#2 was 4 strings (I know some uke chords), mahogany neck, bone nut, separate tuners, passive eq box and rod piezo, inlaid plastic frets and dots.

 

#2 is ok - it is more refined and i can play my uke chords on it, but ...

 

... I do keep returning to #1 and can noodle around for quite a while on 3only frets and a bit of slide. crank up the overdrive on a cheap headphone amp and enjoy :)

 

#1 is what CBG is about - and my CBG #3 will be a development of that, not #2.

JACKPOT!

 

So today, after having done much research on box size and sound, I went back to the first tobacco shop I visited in town. My first time in he had a pretty good selection of boxes, but I thought he was a little high on his prices, and I was also still unsure on box size. So equipped with my new found knowledge and a tape measure I entered the shop once again. The owner recognized me and nodded acknowledging he knew what I was looking for and that I didn't require any assistance.  I started sifting through the boxes, many on them too small but after I was done I had about 10 good ones, and of the 10, 7 were what I now knew to be ideal.  Many of the boxes were priced, some 10, some 8, and some 7.  It was strange however, there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to the pricing. So I carried my lot to the counter and asked "Are you gonna give me a deal?" He said "Yeah." He asked "How much do you want to pay?" Knowing not to pay any more than 5 a box and knowing what I had I asked "How bout 25 ($3.50 a box)?" He looked and counted and said "35...ahh 30 (about $4.29 a box)."  I took the deal. While I was paying I asked him if he ever had any of the "coveted" style boxes and named a specific kind. He said "Yes, I have inventory tomorrow and will have a couple on Friday. I'll keep them for you." I thanked him and told him once I had a box built I would bring him one to hang on the wall (per a suggestion I got from one of our fellow Nationites).  He said that would be great and he would in return give me some free boxes. 

 

It was funny as I was on my way home something hit me.  While he was ringing me up he took one of the boxes I had picked and went back into his walk-in humidor.  He said he needed to make sure of the price of some of his cigars before he let the box go.  He looked at the price on the empty box. On my way home I realized that the prices on the boxes were not the prices of the boxes at all.  They were the prices of the cigars that had been in the boxes! I understand now why there wasn't any rhyme or reason to box price! LOL! Guess I must be a little slow. But give me a break I'm a newbie to this.

 

Altogether I had a good search day. One shop, 7 great boxes, two more excellent ones due friday and a new friend in the cigar business.  The latter being pretty important in this hobby.

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions and help. Keep it coming!

JD

Ok new question. I'm reading around on it but you guys are so quick to reply I thought I would go ahead and throw it out there.  I have seen some folks who do not use tuning pegs for tuning pegs.  They are using eye bolts. So the question is, what are my options for tuning pegs? Obviously, tuning pegs are probably best, but hey, I new to this. What do I know?

Thanks

JD

Hi JD,

You can use eye bolts and the like for tuners, but most people find they are more of a hassle to use than just about any other option. The other options include: covered geared tuners, open geared tuners, ukulele style friction tuners, violin style (or home made) friction tuners, and zither pins (in order of most expensive to least expensive).

Zither pins require a tuning "wrench" to twist the pins. They also work better with hard wood, and some people like them because their kids can't easily de-tune them as compared to those with tuning pegs, etc. So, if you are building instruments for kids, that might be a good option. Zither pins also work well on headless designs. Here is a photo of a Cigar Box Ukulele using zither pins located on the tail end of the neck, and a clock style tuning key.

I haven't used them, so I don't really know how difficult they are to set up, but I imagine you need to consider your design carefully so these long pins don't get in the way and scratch things. You can search around for design ideas on CBN.

 

On my earlier designs (canjos and 1 or 2 stringer CBGs) I used ukulele tuners. They work all right, but get out or tune a bit easier than geared tuners. They also are a bit more finicky when it comes to tuning. These days on all my 3-, 4- (etc.) stringers, I used open geared tuners. Closed geared tuners are housed in a metal case that makes them heavier. You generally want to design you instrument so the head and neck balances out with the sound box, which is kind of hard to do with closed geared tuners on a cigar box guitar. I have not used violin tuners, nor home-made friction tuners, but I do have a Kyrgyz komuz which has small friction tuners. The propblem with them is they can't hold a tuning under a lot of string tension, so I have to tune it D-A-A because it won't hold a D' (as in D-A-D' tuning). Some day I may try to do my own friction tuners, and some people have. Here is a photo I kept for ideas of doing one for a Chinese style CBG design I'm mulling around in the back of my mind:

If you still are interested in eye bolt tuners, CBN has numerous examples. Can search on photos and discussions using the key words "eye-bolt tuners".

 

-Rand.

 

P.S.  Congratulations on scoring those cigar boxes! You sound like you are off to a great start.

 

 

I'm sure one of you professionals around here has some string info. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the best route to go.  I see that you can buy strings at Gitty. Is this the best route or is there a better (or cheaper?) option?

Thanks

JD

Hey Rand,

Thanks for the info. Pictures were great! I decided to go with the economy open geared tuners. Just seemed easier for a first build. Also seemed overall the best way (most reliable)  unless you just want to tinker around.  Maybe after a few builds I'll start messing around a bit.

JD


Rand Moore said:

Hi JD,

You can use eye bolts and the like for tuners, but most people find they are more of a hassle to use than just about any other option. The other options include: covered geared tuners, open geared tuners, ukulele style friction tuners, violin style (or home made) friction tuners, and zither pins (in order of most expensive to least expensive).

Zither pins require a tuning "wrench" to twist the pins. They also work better with hard wood, and some people like them because their kids can't easily de-tune them as compared to those with tuning pegs, etc. So, if you are building instruments for kids, that might be a good option. Zither pins also work well on headless designs. Here is a photo of a Cigar Box Ukulele using zither pins located on the tail end of the neck, and a clock style tuning key.

I haven't used them, so I don't really know how difficult they are to set up, but I imagine you need to consider your design carefully so these long pins don't get in the way and scratch things. You can search around for design ideas on CBN.

 

On my earlier designs (canjos and 1 or 2 stringer CBGs) I used ukulele tuners. They work all right, but get out or tune a bit easier than geared tuners. They also are a bit more finicky when it comes to tuning. These days on all my 3-, 4- (etc.) stringers, I used open geared tuners. Closed geared tuners are housed in a metal case that makes them heavier. You generally want to design you instrument so the head and neck balances out with the sound box, which is kind of hard to do with closed geared tuners on a cigar box guitar. I have not used violin tuners, nor home-made friction tuners, but I do have a Kyrgyz komuz which has small friction tuners. The propblem with them is they can't hold a tuning under a lot of string tension, so I have to tune it D-A-A because it won't hold a D' (as in D-A-D' tuning). Some day I may try to do my own friction tuners, and some people have. Here is a photo I kept for ideas of doing one for a Chinese style CBG design I'm mulling around in the back of my mind:

If you still are interested in eye bolt tuners, CBN has numerous examples. Can search on photos and discussions using the key words "eye-bolt tuners".

 

-Rand.

 

P.S.  Congratulations on scoring those cigar boxes! You sound like you are off to a great start.

 

 

David, Gitty is pretty much the way to go unless you buy strings online in bulk.

He's also the way to go for tuning machines. They're good, and I doubt you'll find a better price.

As far as the tuning machine options ...... zither pins are touchy, very sensitive , and hard to use w/out a wrench.

Wooden pegs are very labor intensive, and are only marginal in holding tune ( IMHO).

 

AFKAM

To clarify:

Zither pins, wooden pegs, violin tuners all are 1:1 ratio tuners. Very limited and difficult to "fine tune". They require a precision fit in an attempt at having the charactaristics of both smooth operation and sufficient friction to stay put, at the same time. What appears to be a simple inexpensive tuner solution can actually turn out to be a royal PITA!

If good economy tuners sound more in line with your plans, cant go wrong with C.B.Gitty's stuff. I have used a few sets and they are fine unless you want high end precision tuners. Good deals on string packages, good information and good service. It would take some searching to do better I assure you.

Now, get to building, show us your progress and.....

Have fun!

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