hi all!
what wood would you use for a 6 string neck so it would be strong enough to avoide installing struss rod?
Tags:
well I can tell you that the body is mahogany & also the neck
the fretboard is rosewood.
don't know though if it has a trussrod...
tal bluver said:
this is a Gibson SG knock off clone. It most definetly has a adjustable truss rod. Look at the headstock, see three screws, remove the screws and the trianglular plastic piece and you will find a nut to adjust the neck.
Don
The concept of installing a fixed steel bar in a neck is quite different to installing an adjustable trussrod. The trussrod adds adjustability, not strength. Depending on how deep the trussrod is installed below the fretboard, it tends to be on the compression side of the neck, or roughly along the neutral axis (the centre of the depth) of the neck. It's not there to add any strength, but to be able to counteract the tendancy of the strings to bend the neck, or in the case of a double-acting rod, it can also counter back-bow due to movement of the timber itself. The closer the trussrod is buried in the centre of the neck (ie the neutral axis) the less contribution it has to adding overall stiffness to the neck.
A fixed, glued-in reinforcement such as a steel or carbon fibre bar, by creating what is in effect a composite structure can result in a stiffer neck, the downside is there's no adjustability to be able to tweek the relief in the neck. Laminating the neck with a really stiff centre section of timber can also help, By keeping the neck pretty deep (structurally you are increasing the sectional modulus by going for a deeper neck), and the old-timey "vee" necks are an example of this.
This is wrong. A steel or aluminum rod, square or whatever, is stronger then wood. Yes you remove wood, but the rod adds more strength than what the removed wood had. Yes the strength sometimes comes through tension, but it is still strength.
I do agree that if you did it w/out a truss rod, it should be big and chunky.
But, IMHO, I wouldn't do a six-er w/out a truss rod.
AFKAM
Jef Long said:
And id carve it nice and chunky, 50s style..
plenty of guitars have been made with no rod, dont believe the hype!
also, btw.. a truss rod does not add strength, it actually diminishes it by virtue of the wood it requires you to remove. What it gives you back is adjustment.. so you can crank some relief back in when the tension bends it.
If you are building a 6 string, the string tension even with light strings is considerable.
Going by the various string sets from the D'Addario website, adding the individual string tensions,
one can expect 103lbs of neck tension for guages 10-46 (light),
129lbs for guages 11-52 (medium) and 148 lbs for guages 12-54.
So even with a light set on your CBG neck, constant tension could eventually cause some bowing.
However, if your action is high to begin with, then the bowing may not be too serious to
cause fret buzz.
Using a better quality wood such as quarter sawn, over flat sawn, where the wood grain growth rings are
"on end" vs flat sawn will help to prevent normal cupping of the wood.
Martin and other manufacturers use quarter sawn mahogany in their necks for stability.
Fender uses maple, which is properly seasoned, Hard maple properly seasoned is very stable.
As far as a wood strip, you need to laminate the neck with a hard piece of wood in the middle,
at least a 1/4 inch and perferably a bit wider. Usually hard maple can be used for this strip in most guitars,
but the steel bar or tube, as Bob is suggesting is good insurance against neck warping.
I'm using one of these Martin style square steel tubes on my next build.
Bob, That style of truss rod has been around awhile. Jon copied one here:http://pluto.spaceports.com/~fishbake/lpc/truss/trusr.htm
I look forward to seeing what you do with the neck.
Don
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