This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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Hi,

I did a bit of work on these today, got the bridges made. Concert size ukes.

Taff

Looking good.

wow, those are going to be nice looking ukes. 

Thanks Lonman, I've only finished the one so far, I'm surprised how nice it sounds. I have to tweak the headstock on the next one as its a bit cramped around the first and second fret.

Taff

wow, really like how you did this.

Learning as I go. My home made barrels for the spindle sander will have to be cut in pieces. Then glued together. I'll set up a sand paper lathe to slowly smooth out any imperfections. My spindle sander table will have to be reworked. I'll be replacing the 2x6 clamp with a 3/4 ply one. Need more room under the drill table. Means I'll have to shorten the badonkadonk handle bolts by 1/2 inch each. But that's no biggy. I learned this after try to glue all the wood together. Then cut it out in one piece. 

I've also made a regular wood work surface for my drill press. It's able to be bolted to either the swing table or the foot plate. Be easier to clamp things to. 

Learned that I have two options to cutting out my bodies. The hand held jig saw or my 16 inch scroll saw. The scroll saw will take longer. And a few blades. But there would be no chip out in the ply. Could do a ruff cut with the jig. Then clean up on the scroll. Just wish I had the time to play with all of this.

Hi CTBR, I'm not sure if I have got your problems correct in my mind but I thought I would post this just in case, and it may give you some ideas.

With the drum sander, I take it that to get the depth or sanding area you want you will have to laminate layers of timber to get that. A way I have done it is to use hole saws of the desired diameter, cut  a series of discs and layer them up, glue them together and clamp them with a bolt through the hole left by the holesaw drill. Then chuck it into the drillpress  and file or sand smooth.

With your specialty table explanation for mounting it to the drillpress table, if I read your account correctly, sounds and looks overly complicated to me, but then I'm not there and if I've got it all wrong, sorry about that,

My best friend in my machine/tool modification and creation endeavours is the simple "wingnut". I have all the sizes in my parts drawer, just in case. The photos I have included should give the idea.

Jigsaw. here's a photo of my set up for one of my jigsaws. Re tear out from the blade, would this matter too much in this case? as I would think that the edges of the guitar would not be left square but have a radiused finish or binding. But scoring the outline with a sharp blade would minimise this issue I think. Anyway If any of this helps, all is good, if not it may help someone else.

Cheers Taff

Didn't have much to do today. Had a old snare drum shell with Red Oak Ply glued to one side, a empty gallon tea container(Lipton Green Tea Citrus) and a recently emptied large can of Pringles chips. So I made a junkyard set of bongos.

Don't sound to bad, but I'm not going on tour.

I use wing nuts when I can. The drill table is held on by them. But I do need something a bit bigger for my right hand at times. It's more comfortable for me to hold something larger. The other reason for the set up is the spindle table top itself is 3/4 inch partial board. Bolts would have ripped out of that in no time. 

Below is my home made water color paper stretcher. The sheet sits on a raised platform. The aluminum bars are held down below this platform. This angle causes friction and hold the paper in place as it drys. Tight as a drum. And unlike a lot of the ones you can buy there is no water pooling at the edges. 

Well according to the internet pounding nuts into wood then holding them in place with two part epoxy is a great idea. Reality sometimes gets in the way of great ideas. Popped right out. It was a bad idea to use particle board for a work top anyway so I'm remaking it. Think the only thing I'll be making out of the rest of that 3/4 particle board is light duty shelves. 

Did get a few things done. First pic is the spindles and some clamps. 


Next pic is my clampable work light. I got two of these pole lights for $5 each. The bottoms were bad so I disassembled them. Had to cut the wire to get it out of the pole. So I used what's called a 'lineman's splice' to reconnect it. That's where you off set cutting both wires. With enough length between them so the spices will never touch. Two pieces of 2x4, a strip of 3/4 ply and any small camp. 

Last pic is my drill work table. This will bolt onto either the foot or swing table. 

I'll be heading back out into the garage to play (practice) inside cuts with the scroll saw. The pickup rings are going to be cut out of 1/4 ply guitar top. That way when screwed back in place they will be flush with the top of the guitar. 

Now that's a good work light.

My redesigned spindle table. The work surface is an old table top. Dimensions are 27 1/2 by 13 7/8 deep. Work area between the 2 inch spindle and edge of table is 11 1/5. Plenty of room to keep things stable. The little bock of wood is the spacer for the drills swing table. Just drop it down to that, tighten and go.

Still suck at the scroll saw. I'm now using color ink so I can see the line from the shadow better. But still need practice.  

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