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Comment by Mark Bliss on October 24, 2016 at 2:40pm

I meant to add this image, roughly indicated what is meant by the point where the string breaks over the bridge saddle, in case there was any misunderstanding.

And for what its worth while I also have reservations abut the valuation of many  mid to high end guitars, I would offer this example.

I pick up an Affinity Tele at a pawn shop for $125. Nice feeling neck, some useable parts right?

Value new $200. Very nice guitar for the money IMO. Better than many at twice the price in my experience.

Minimum: properly finish fret ends, level frets, replace plastic nut with one of better quality and fit, (The originals are always too low and too fragile in my experience.) Optional, well polished frets. Fresh quality strings and decent setup and intonations.

Labor value, $200+

Now you might want to at least replace those cheap cast saddles with better quality parts, and replace the cheap trouble prone 3 way switch with a better quality part. The plastic jack plate is plastic and breaks easily. metal one is cheap but adds to the tab.

We are rapidly approaching the $600 mark and haven't even considered that many people would prefer a little hotter pickups.....

So my point is, there is a difference, parts can be inexpensive but add up, and your time has a value.

Some of those $1200, $1300 models are pretty nicely set up and equipped.

Now on the other hand, I cant explain a $3K-5K strat or tele, or whatever. I don't care what the parts combo or finish or legendary model we are trying to emulate.

Some will disagree with me on this. I would counter that most of those people have either never spent any real time playing a REALLY nicely setup guitar, or perhaps don't have the experience to truly appreciate it.

Comment by darryl kernaghan on October 24, 2016 at 1:29pm

Appreciate the "tech savvy" comment, but it's far from true, most of my knowledge[?] is just stuff i've picked up here over the last few years, just re sharing it, it's normally stuff i've tried and found accurate

Comment by Mark Bliss on October 24, 2016 at 12:26pm

I would trend toward Darryls advise here.

Begin with the bridge saddles adjusted to about 80-90% full extension.

Measure nut to 12th fret, and then the same distance from the 12th fret to locate the bridge saddle location.

Then string it up and set intonation, which will vary somewhat depending on tuning/tension/string gauge. and action height.

Tune your strings, check each strings tuning fretted at the 12th and adjust the saddle, retune the string and repeat until both open and fretted at the 12th measure in tune.

Play it like ya stole it. Record a Tiny Tim cover.

Or something.

Comment by darryl kernaghan on October 24, 2016 at 12:04pm

Generally with adjustable hard tails, you will never need to go forward of scale length, so set your saddle to full extension towards the nut, if you feel the need for a bit of fudge factor, just bring the plate forward a few mm

Comment by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on October 24, 2016 at 11:33am

I'm beginning to wonder why anyone buys those over priced factory made instruments. Just finished another build yesterday and I can't remember ever hearing such a beautiful sound. Cheapest pickup I could find at the time due to finances but it sounds like a dream. Used more remnants of a pine single bed for the wood which means it's probably gonna bow, if not snap, in the not so distant future but in the meantime I'm going to play it with a vengeance. Getting in to building these things may be the single best thing in the world!

Comment by Danny B. on October 24, 2016 at 9:07am

Well, I adjusted the screws so the bridges were all at midpoint, so they could be adjusted as much either way later if needed.

Then measure from the place the string loops over making last contact with the bridge to your 12th fret.

Comment by Scott Ross on October 24, 2016 at 8:39am

O.K. I give up, thought I could figure it out but I was wrong. So.....

QUESTION: What part of a fixed adjustable hard tail bridge do you measure from to ensure proper placement. So far I thought I measured it correctly twice, but was wrong both times. I have to move the sucker back yet again. I'd like to get it right this time, I'm leaving a trail of vacated screw holes on the body as I attempt to get this right. (First build/Kit build) And the answer is..............?

Comment by Robert Killen on October 24, 2016 at 5:32am

That's a great point, Danny. I can't say I've noticed any diminished sustain. But that's likely because the break angle over the saddle is severe. Also, so far my builds are all acoustic. If I was electrifying it the sustain would probably be a bigger issue.

Cheers!

Comment by Danny B. on October 24, 2016 at 2:02am

I gotta say I would replace this with a thick metal plate. I don't like it at all if I think my strings aren't really fixed. Even if they hold.. it would in my my mind negatively effect sustain.

Comment by Fomhorach on October 24, 2016 at 12:22am

It might be ok

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