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First 4 strings build progress

I really started working on it.

I cut the box to fit the neck on both ends.
Will then decide on how I do the headstock, make it, then will glue the freboard.

I want to keep it simple, but do what it needs to play well and sound good.

More to come

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Permalink Reply by JL on August 25, 2016 at 11:33pm

Beautiful Start there

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 26, 2016 at 3:12am

Thanks...

That's the fun of it. It doesn't take a lot to begin to see a result.

Began doing a scarf joint. I'm not sure I like that. I'm more a Fender type of guy with a straight headstock I think...

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 28, 2016 at 8:58am

It took me a little while to decide on the details for the neck, but I finally made up my mind and used my bandsaw to cut the parts to complete the neck.

It will be a scarf joint. With 2 ears addes to the headstock.

Here is how I found it easier to cut it.

I will add more photos when I begin to put the neck together. Nothing original, but I'm open to suggestions.

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 28, 2016 at 9:02am

My temporarybsetup...

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on August 28, 2016 at 9:25am

Looks great so far.

Your pic on cutting the scarf joint is fine. I've done most of mine that way. Using a 3/4" piece(1" from the store) I measure from the end/heel to the nut, then measure back 3", draw a diagonal line on the side and cut, flip the headstock piece over and glue.

Glueing the scarf joint can be tricky. I usually do a dry fit and drill 2 holes through both pieces and put 2 wood screws through them, remove the screws and apply the glue, then put the screws in tightly to hold the pieces in place without any wiggle problems from the glue. Wipe off the excess and let it dry 24 to 48 hours depending on temp and humidity. Remove the screws and drill the holes to 1/4" and glue in 2 1/4" dowel pieces. Fretboard glues on top of both pieces making a strong scarf joint.

Use Titebond (original) or Elmers Wood Glue Max.

Are you going to use a piezo or magnetic pickup?

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 28, 2016 at 10:32am

Good idea to use the screws for the gluing. Thanks for mentioning it.

I wanted to add the 2 dowels right from the start, but using screws first will make it easier to glue the 2 pieces together.

For the pickup, I ordered a Flatpup from Elmar Zeilhofer. I have many Tele pickups left from my previous builds, but I like this new type of flat pickups.

http://www.original-flatpup.com/flatpup-cbg-pickup/88-fp4-scalloped

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on August 28, 2016 at 10:41am

I was going to mention adding wings to the inside since you would need to cutaway some material for pickups and that would weaken your neck. So added wings would restore strength.

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 28, 2016 at 3:57pm

It's what I like from flat pickups. They just sit on top of the guitar, and don't need any cutaway in the neck, just a hole fhe wire.

The sound will be a surprise...

But I will reinforce the part of the neck inside the box anyway... Just because...

I use a Dobro Lace Sensor on my metal resonator guitar and I love it. Designed with Dobro for Lace for a resonator guitar.

I just glued the headstock and will add more photos of the process.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on August 28, 2016 at 7:23pm

With the flat pup you won't need wings. You might want a support between the neck and bottom of the box at the ends of the box though. I usually put a 1 & 1/2" block at each end and one under the bridge to add some sustain.

Some people like to have a space between the top and the neck for the most amount of top vibration, but the bridge needs to have a solid foundation or your top will sink in under the bridge unless your top is thick(1/4").

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Permalink Reply by Gilles C. Caron on August 29, 2016 at 5:44am

Here is the glued headstock. I still need to sand it to get rid of the glue and level all the pieces.

I will glue a top to hide the joints and make the headstock stronger. I will route the back for the tuners but will keep the middle thicker for strengh.

It's all standard work for most of you, but I'm always looking for ideas and hope it can help someone at the same time.

Next... The part that goes into the box.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on August 29, 2016 at 7:55am

You did the scarf joint in the opposite direction. It's on the headstock instead of the neck. It'll work though and people won't see the seem if you paint over it. Some people do it that way and put a veneer over it.

Here's a pic of one of mine. The seem is hard to see, it starts at the bottom of the neck near the nut and runs to the top at the 2nd fret.