Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on August 2, 2016 at 4:38pm

I prefer wooden boxes for that reason.  I have tried to finish paper covered boxes, but any little scratch and the finish bleeds under the surface, discoloring it.

Personally, I say let it wear!  They look great after some love...

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Permalink Reply by William Allman on August 3, 2016 at 12:29am

I guess I wasn't clear. My box is all wood but it has a paper/foil decorative "skin" over the wood as well as some paper tax stickers, price stickers, etc. I was wondering if a coat of lacquer would help keep it stuck to the wood and looking clean.

Thanks, Bill

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on August 3, 2016 at 12:04pm

Most of the boxes we use are either wood, painted wood, or paper over wood...

You can certainly try... As far as sticking the paper down, I find that a little white glue works wonders and cleans up with a damp cloth.  

As far as the tax stickers and such, I normally wipe a layer of poly on the back of the box after I apply a label.  Those tax stickers don't seem to be affected by it...

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Permalink Reply by Fomhorach on August 2, 2016 at 10:21pm

I haven't tried a paper box. Have a look at decoupage on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/pTYFhRuT0gk
Here's one..

One thing though.. On wooden boxes, I've car spray painted the box without sanding and with sanding to a glass finish and surprisingly it's the box without sanding that worked best. It's scratch resistant too as the paint has a nice surface for attaching. I used metallic paint and the tiny flecks followed the grain of he wood highlighting it. The finish turned out way better than I expected.

I have heard that the plastic type of finishes (is this the polyethylene type? I'm not sure) can be heated gently after application, to melt it and produce a very high shine with even coverage.

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Permalink Reply by Jonno on August 2, 2016 at 11:02pm

My first test build was a cardboard box that originally had a vhs tape in it. I painted with some auto paint I had layin around. It had a real shimmering metallic look that was appealing. I did one more test build using a plastic vhs tape box.The paint looked better on the cardboard box.Paper mache sounds interesting

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Permalink Reply by BP - RabidSalad - on August 3, 2016 at 3:25am

I use a clear spray on lacquer on all my boxes.  I actually spray a light coating on them at the very start.  I find it helps keep the box clean and protects the paper from getting marked up by accidents.  When I'm finishing the project I give it another light coat to brighten it up a bit.  But each to their own.

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Permalink Reply by Jonno on August 3, 2016 at 11:52am

What about the fretboard. For my first two builds I just rubbed some furniture polish in em that gave a little colour. Bit of ilive oil as well. I didnt use any laquer.But on build 3 and soon to be completed build 4 (becoming an expert he ge), I have laquered fretboard. The finish is more shiny but I don't know what other benefit the laquer serves (maybe helps my glued on frets stay in place).It would stop the nstural skin oils getting into your fretboard and greasy finger stuff. That is probably a negative.

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Permalink Reply by BP - RabidSalad - on August 3, 2016 at 12:15pm

Personally I just use a gloss lacquer, spray on, makes things very shiny and people like shiny.  I glue my frets on as well. a small dab of thin crazy glue on the ends.  Then when I finish the edges and glue stain disappears.  I think most will tell you to find what you like and works for you, and build around that.

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Permalink Reply by William Allman on August 3, 2016 at 1:00pm

I have built many stringed instruments and I only lacquered the first one. Not a good idea.

Lacquer on a fretboard will become sticky and will wear off and look like crap. I have found the best finish for fretboards is a product called "TrueOil".   True oil is normally used for finishing  on a gun stocks. It drys to a clear clean finish that holds up well. Ideal for fretboards.

Here is what I do: I use a wood called Ipe. It is a dark, very hard wood that does not have a visible grain. I cut it to size and sand it to 320 grit. then I wipe on a coat of True Oil . A day later I wipe on a second coat and when it is dry sand to 600 grit. I then cut in the fret slots and buff the board with 0000 steel wool. Then I press in the frets, file flush with the edge and file the angle on the frets and file smooth. I lock in the frets with thin CA and it is ready to glue to the neck.  

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Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on August 4, 2016 at 11:13pm

I use olive oil. Easy to get, easy to apply, wood soaks it up, and you can fry your hottest licks with it. ;-)

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Permalink Reply by Jonno on August 5, 2016 at 1:06am

Lol Ron. Just add some garlic uh..delicious.

@ William. Wish I hadn't used laquer now. It does get sticky slick. Just doesnt feel right. Think I might get the laquer off my latest build. The oil you mentioned sounds good. A lovely little instrument you showed. The fretboard looks great. Plenty of elbow grease has gone into it. Sanding has never been my forte. I must get more into it

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Permalink Reply by William Allman on August 5, 2016 at 1:59am

I probably have 6 to 8 hours of sanding in a typical mandolin or ukulele build. Never thought about the time spent sanding.. I find it relaxing to sand. I fill tiny flaws in the finish using a drop of lacquer on a tooth pick to build the finish up level. Ha. Crazy

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