I guess you could look at it this way: If it's easy to cut and shape - it's easy to warp and bow. Hahaha

Poplar can be great for bodies in the tone dept. I made a neck out of Poplar once for a 6 string(3 sets of 2 strings) 28" scale Dulcitar that started to bow on me. Had to cut down to 4 strings to stop the bowing. The neck was a 3/4" thick Poplar with 2 - 1/4" Red Oak laminations and a steel rod for a trussrod. 

There's a guy on the TDPRI Guitar Forum that regularly makes necks out of Poplar with success, but He uses adjustable trussrods.

Also used Pine on a 25" 4 string neck with non adjustable trussrod and laminated fretboad. Won't do that again, even the headstock bowed on it.

Red Oak, Maple or Mahogany is the way to go for necks. IMO

Deltagroove.com makes great necks for CBG's in complete or you finish modes. Check them out some time.

Depending on what material your neck is made of, is to  how high your string action is at the last frets. Whatever wood you use there'll be some bowing of the neck that will raise the strings.

I always use Red Oak for necks with a non-adjustable trussrod on my necks. That's usually stable enough for 4 to 6 strings. On my bridges, I usually mount a bolt on a block of wood that can be trimmed or exchanged for a bigger one if needed. Things don't always turn out the way they're planned, so having a way out of the mess is good rather than starting all over again.

Will the bridge saddles have adjustable height?

Saw your email in the strummers and dulcimers group. We can't reply back from the emails which is annoying and I don't knw why they won't fix that.

You'll want your bridge/saddles to be about 1/8th" or less above the last fret on the board for fretted gits unless you plan to occasionally play some slide. If you want to play some slide, you'll need more height, but your the only one that can say how much because it depends on your playing.

Hope that helps. Not a lot of talk goes on in that group so you may want to ask those type questions in the CBG 101 group's comment wall.

Hi Rooster

Can't find you question about setting up bridge.

Put a pencil mark at the centre of each end of the fingerboard,lie a steel rule on these marks then put a third mark at the bottom of the box where the centre of your tailpiece will be(or the centre of your box where your bridge will sit if you aren't using a tailpiece)

Wayfinder did a thread about using nails for frets, It's how the old blues guys did it. Do a search around the site and you'll find it.

Thanks for the friend add, can never have too many.

Hi, thanks for the friend add, glad you're enjoying the music : -)

Hey Rooster!  As a rooster knows, they're rare as hen's teeth!  Sorry, but no more have shown up around here.  But, as Rooster Cogburn would say, I'll keep an eye out for you!

thanks man .

Hey

I added you as a friend so when you accept send me a message on here

Thanks!

Here's a couple of more pics of my overall stash.  I live in South Florida and have access to an incredible amount of cigar stores, so if there is a particular box you're looking for, there's a good chance I can find it.

For overall size, I have two La Aurora 10" l x 8" w x 3-1/2" d. One is a Platinum Edition Cameroon with a pale yellow top label and the other is a Gold Edition Corojo with a gold top label.  I'm pretty sure they are solid wood, but am unsure of the joinery.  The bare wood is unfinished. They do have paper banding around the edges.  They're actually quite nice.

I have a Padron Series 1926 that is 11" l x 7-3/4" w x 1-3/4" d. It has a torn label and a small gouge on the top that could be hidden by an overlapping fret board.  I'd give it a light sanding and re-spray some lacquer or shellac due to some scratches.  Case style with finger joints.

And if you're looking for something "crazy" how about a DOUBLE-lidded box? LFD (LDF?) Double Press, 11" l x 7-3/4" w x 1-3/4",  both top and bottom open.

Had to split it up:

I have two Cohiba Churchills, solid wood, finger jointed, 10-1/4" l x 7-3/4" w x 2" d.  Beautiful boxes, and I've had sucess with wiping off the Cohiba printing on these boxes in the past if you have a mind to.

Hey Rooster!

What's "crazy"?

Largest factory boxes I currently have are:

Partagas Series S.  This box is 11-1/4" l x 8-1/4" w x 2-1/4" d. and is all 1/4" plywood.  Due to the  "butt-joint" construction rather than finger jointed, I would not remove the paper edging.

I also have an Arturo Fuente King B, 13" l x 8-1/2" w x 1-1/2" d, also plywood butt-joint, and I think the top may be Masonite with a cedar veneer.