Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on March 9, 2016 at 3:36pm

Daryl,

Instead of screws, try popping a couple of long staples int one side of the joint. Then trim / snip off the bridge part of the staple so that two very small parts of the staple legs protrude. This will keep your scarf joint from sliding during glue up, and is quicker than putting in screws and backfilling screw holes.

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Permalink Reply by Busyhands Slim on March 9, 2016 at 3:24pm

I also prefer #1 because the fretboard strengthens the joint so much (more than headstock veneer). Fenders and many CBGs have no back angle, though, so it's up to you.

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on March 10, 2016 at 8:26am

Method 1 works well if you are using a fret board, but if you plan to make a neck without a fret-board (a slider or frets cut directly in to the neck), then method 2 is a better choice. That keeps the scarf joint out of your frets (drawn or cut).

As far as joint strength is concerned, I don't think there is any difference when properly glued and clamped.

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on March 10, 2016 at 4:45pm

I see a couple guys recommending 15 degrees, but the stuff I found said 7 degrees is normal for "regular" (gotta find a better term for that!) guitars.  No rules aside, what is the preferred angle for you all?  The smaller the angle, the longer the glue joint, but the string angle is less.

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Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on March 10, 2016 at 5:56pm

I've seen anywhere fro no angle (Fender) to extremes of 60 degrees (Middle Eastern ouds and European lutes). Most commercial gits fall in the 11-15 degree range.

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Permalink Reply by Scott McGilliard on March 11, 2016 at 5:46am

I use #1 method.  I recently made a 6 string and used a 1x4 and a 10 degree angle.  The only saw I have that would cut deep enough was my 40 year old hand saw.  I straightened out the cut with an oscillating sander and then did the same on top of the neck for the fret board. (I've also done the same with no fret board, just fretted the neck.)  It's all matter of how precise you can be with the tools you have.  Since I've shaped about 30 necks with the hand held sander, I've gotten pretty good with it.  I cut my fret slots with a coping saw.  Hand tools rock.

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Permalink Reply by Matt Quinney on March 11, 2016 at 8:10am

I did some measurements. My Fender acoustic 6 string has a neck/head angle of 14 degrees.  The 4 stringer I built has an angle of 12 degrees and method #1.  I remember when I built it that I just sort of eyeballed the angle.  Still, it works fine, no need for string trees......

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