When is sanding a Fret-board of a CBG used? We focus mainly on 3 string fret-less for slide playing .. We will begin using frets for a few guitars soon .. Any advice would be appreciated ... Pat Riley

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If your going with fretless, you don't need to radius sand the fretboard. Since the fretboard is small on a 3 or 4 string CBG and your using frets, you could get away with not radius sanding.

All of my CBG's have been 4 string with frets and I did radius sand my boards because I'm used to it playing 6 string guitars for many years. You can buy a radius sanding block from Stewmac or make one like I did. I made a block out of a 2 x 4 that 4 inches long with a 12 inch radius. Don't need much of a radius on these CBG's.

Hi Pat, Been playing over 20 years and building a year and a half now, done loads of research on and gotten generous tutoring from top luthiers. The main benefit of radiusing is to make the fingerboard more ergonomic, particularly when playing bar chords. Ideally the radius should comform to the natural curve of the index finger when relaxed and held naturally - between 9" and as large as 16". Keep in mind you'll have to radius the saddle and nut the same. I second Paul on considering the need to radius - you won't notice much on 3 strings, but both Mya Moe and Luis Mesquita radius their ukes and even on 4 strings it's nice and comfy. I've been doing flat boards on my 3 and 4-strings, since they double for slide playing and this definitely wouldn't be good radiused, but I plan to start radiusing on some future builds myself. Good luck! Tom@roughcutguitars

I don't bother with radiusing 3 or 4 string fingerboards. I think a taper downwards towards the headstock is fine for ergonomics. I do, however consider a radius (and taper) a must for a 6 string.

Taper, but no radius:

Radius and taper:

A slight taper like these can be done quick and easy with a regular flat sanding block. Just move it up and down the board and work across to get the right taper you want. Easy peasy.

Just remember to cut the fret slots first.

Nice lookin' builds Richey.

Thanks Paul. I was referring to the taper of the width of the fretboard, becoming gradually narrower towards the nut. I made a little how to here:
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/m/blogpost?id=2592684%3ABlogPost%3A22...

That how to is very helpful.

I tapered the neck on my first build with my sanding block, but left the others as is. A tapered neck definitely looks better and more "professional".

I made some radius sanding blocks.  It is not that hard.  Make a positive pattern and carve a 2x4 to match the pattern.  then glue sandpaper on it and use it to san u t the concave pattern for doing fret boards. Use spray on glue for the sand paper.

I have 12" and 16" blocks.  Lots of times I start at the nut with 12" and work up to flat at the bridge end. I have never had to radius the bridge.

I made 2 radius blocks. 1 is made out of a 2"x4"x4" pine for sanding and the other is made out of oak that I use to press the frets in. Then I finish with a hammer.

Great tip on the fret press block Paul!  I did some fretted flat necks and pushed them in with blocks of wood and my vice, but was thinking I needed a new method for radiused 4 string that is in the works. 

Stewmac has some radius attachments for a arbor press or drill press for pressing in frets that have all the different radius sizes. Since I can't buy all the tools I want/need, I have to figure out alternative ways to accomplish things.

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