A while back, a member posted a build that He did making the box out of Cedar roof shingles. The instrument had a great sound to it and made me want to build one for myself.

The shingles have a taper to them and would require planing and I don't have a planer. Also I would have to buy a bundle at 18 dollars. Cedar planks were available at the grocery store for grilling Fish. They were 2 boards 1/4" x 5" x 12" at 4 to 6 dollars a package.

Settled on a Western Cedar fence plank at Lowe's 5/8ths" x 5&1/2" x 60" for $2.55. This was just enough wood for the box and any braces needed, but would need to be dried more. Cut the pieces and dried them in the oven.

Made a frame for the box and the top and bottom panels. Since 5/8ths" is too thick for an effective acoustic, I layed the box frame on top of the panels and traced the inside barrier. I routed the back inside to 1/4" and glued a 1/4" brace along the seam and routed the top inside to 3/16th" and glued a 1/4" brace along the seam. I'll have to add a cross brace later for the bridge, but it will only contact the center brace and the box sides to maximize top vibration. The top is glued to the frame and the back is attached with 4 screws for now, may glue it later. The box was sanded to have a curved side profile. It has a 1&3/4" sound hole. I plan to attach the neck to the box side with screws and glue.

The neck and fretboard will be made of Red Oak. Going for 4 strings and 25" scale with bridge near center of sound board. I plan on using a Uke style bridge and nut. Plan on putting in 2 piezo, 1 on the low string side and 1 on the high string side wired to a blend pot.

Pics of what I have so far.

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I applied Truoil to the box over the Black acrylic paint without issue. Real shiny right now, but it will dull a little over time.

Got my wood for the new fretboard. Still need to take out the backbow in the neck which will require removing the glued in trussrod. YAY!

A couple of hours per coat for thick coats, an hour for thin.

This has 3 thick coats. The first coat soaked in like water to a sponge, second coat was spotty and the third coat was just right.

This stuff is great. Nice shine that can be buffed to look like glass, or you can scuff it with steel wool for a satin look. It protect the wood from damage very well.

You can get at Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro Shop, some Walmarts and some gun shops.

Made by Birchwood Casey - Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish.  Amazingly works well on Guns too. LOL

I will add that drying times may vary. Haha

Cold, humidity and the age of the product may make the drying time longer.

I remember doing 3 coats in 1 afternoon when it was nice dry weather on a late spring project.

The neck is ready for a board, tuners and nut.

Thanks and Yes. Cutting the slots for the frets now.

Fret slots are cut and board glued to the neck. Sitting in the jig to dry.

Frets are in. Time to get the files out and have some more fun. Had a ding in the fretboard, but a wet paper towel and the clothes iron took care of that.

After filing, it's on to re-staining the neck, staining the board, fret markers and Truoil.

Next is Brass screws for fret markers and Truoil.

Went ahead and glued the neck to the box and used 2 screws for added strength.

A couple of pics of the joint.

I'm digging the headstock shape too. Does kinda give off a old rail dragster look.

Got my tuners in and a Uke strip type piezo from CBGitty. Had intended to do something different with the piezo side of thing(several piezo's in parrallel wired to a blend pot), but ran out of money and had to change things up some. I'll have to add the lipstick tube pup later.

The tuners I got are the sealed type 2x2. They have threaded bushings. That will require drilling the smaller hole all the way through for the threaded bushing and then drilling the outside larger for the shoulder on the tuner.

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