I am not sure what my problem is... according to most videos and articles I have read or seen fretting isn't supposed to be all that bad.  I have the PDF from Josh G (forget how to spell his last name), I bought and watched Red Dog's DVD (watched it a couple of times when it came to the part on fretting). I did the same with Bill Jehle's DVD. I watched Big Daddy's video series on YouTube (several times). I just cannot get a handle on fretting.

Now with Cigar Box Guitars most would say, "So! Go Fretless!".  I have done that, and still like doing that for certain guitars, but the truth of the matter is, I can't play slide all that great (although I am getting better), but I prefer to fret an instrument.  I can actually play something if I can fret it. It's what I am most used to.

Is there anyone else who can empathize/sympathize, and maybe has gotten past this?  I am to the point of looking for Luthier Classes somewhere, anywhere! (and sadly not finding any local to my area in NC).  I just need someone to hands on show me is the only thing I can think. I honestly do not know what I am doing wrong.  I am following all the tips and tricks I can find (for the most part, minus a few expensive tools).  I am almost at my wits end with fretting an instrument, yet there are so many more instruments (CBGs, Guitars, Basses, Canjos, Cookie Tin Builds, etc....) that I want to build.

So far, I have tried to fret roughly 10 guitar (one of them is for the 3rd time). Out of those, only half turned out okay (three turning out really well (one I used bobby pins for the frets) and the other two just okay)).  The other half were an awful mess that make no sense and piss me off to no end.     

Any ideas?

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I subscribe to Gary's suggestion to break the process into steps, then get your tools and technique down for each step. One more to add to Gary's list is bridge placement and angle - that's super critical to get the intonation right.

I  agree with Tom that the proper tools are essential. Some people can build exquisite stuff just using a hammer and a roll of duct tape, but I'm not one of those people (actually I hate those people). The proper tools for a good fret job are not cheap but they change a nerve wracking  job into a rewarding one. Money spent on quality tools is always money well spent in my opinion.

All the suggestions above are great.  

The HF pull saw you have is the newer one and is too wide... the old one works, but I can't find those anymore.

The real trick for me was making a miter box.  The non-fretting ones are just too floppy.  Basically, I made a hardwood Miter box, and cut it in half with a chop Saw.  Then I screwed down the two pieces to a third piece of wood, with the blade of the saw in between to make a good fit...

I really didn't like fretting until I bought a stainless template and blade for my table saw...

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Fretting/Dual_Fret_S...

Of course, that is a big investment in tooling for a hobby... but I'm obsessed...  

Can I send you a fretboard?  I have a few purple heart boards cut... PM Me.

I have used this a couple of times now, and I really like it.

You still need a saw with the right kerf - mine is a bit too narrow for the frets I am using, so i am going to try the Gitty one.

To use this jig, you do need a fretboard that's already slotted. I got a 24.75 inch one from China Chinese one from ebay for $5 including delivery and it's spot on.

This is a really useful thread with loads of good ideas .  Thanks everyone

I like that Denis. I think I could do it using something like this. With that it looks like I just need a better saw. I know I can make a miter box like that.

I just saw this in the CBGitty store  $6.99 is too cheap to waste time building one. That and the right saw and your out for under $30. Just sayin'

Thanks Tom, I saw this, but wasn't sure.  Now after seeing the video linked to above, I would just add something to the bottom for my index to catch on and be good to go. 

I haven't bought the templates. I build all of mine to 25.5 scale with a fender-style nut.  

I cut the slot for the nut.

Then, using the nut on one of my strats or teles as a guide, I mark the fret locations. 

After about 20 done this way, I haven't had a problem with intonation, other than the string height can pull a note sharp if it's too high. I found that cheating the first fret a little closer to the nut, helps, too. Each one has it's sweet spot..  Once I find it, it's CBG boogie time.

Cynthia,

My favourite T shirt reads:-

"He who dies with the most tools wins"

I always thought that was a man thing. but......................................

  I know just what you mean Brian-as a fellow NC hobbyist with limited tools, I used to have trouble with making perfectly measured straight cuts no matter how many times I measured them carefully out. I had issues with proper seating without damaging the frets (my favorite Martin frets are radiused and I don't radius my boards) and then dressing them without scratching my neck (yes, even through the tape)...

 These days I:

1) Download and print my fret marks and tape them on-perfect cuts every time! You probably already have  a fret calculation method, but here's the link anyway:

http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

2) I traded in my dressing files for disposable Emery boards from the Dollar Tree-doesn't go through the tape!

3) I realize my seating will never be perfect so now I get them within 'eyeball' and go to town on the entire course with my perfectly straight sanding block before I even think about inserting the nut.

4) Sliding bridges on everything, even the Ukes-if I misadjusted anything by only the tiniest amounts, I can adjust intonation on the fly and get proper play.

 Also...sometimes I cheat. You can find a number of relatively inexpensive fret boards at CB Gitty or Ebay-if you know what fret length you want in advance (say 15" Uke or 25" Guitar) then purchase, glue, adjust the bridge and play it! I mean, I like knowing I can fret-and still have to on my Dulcimers due to Diatonic scale-but it isn't like I manufacture my tuners or strings by hand, is it now? If you hate fretting enough, buy one and glue it, nobody's gonna give you grief over it!  :)

OK, I know you've got plenty of replies, but here's my top tip - after making over 800 fretted guitars, it works for me. Apologies for the shouty capitals, but these points are important. 

Measuring.

Get a long (600mm or 900mm) steel rule, with millimeter markings.

Use the Stew Mac online fret calculator, and work in millimeters. DO NOT use a printed paper template.

Use "running dimensions" measuring from the nut for each fret each time (the Stew Mac calculator gives you these dimensions). DO NOT measure from fret to fret as you will just build up and multiply inaccuracies.

Scribe the marks on with a knife, it's more accurate than a pencil.

Cutting slots.

Buy a proper fretting saw - this is the only specialist tool you really need. DO NOT attempt to save money by buying something that looks like one - get a real Sheffield steel one from Stew Mac.

Make a simple mitre box from scrap timber - it's an afternoon well spent and will last you many years, and will make your work quicker easier and more accurate.

Setting the frets

DO NOT cut the fretwire to fretboard width. Use it in 300-450mm lengths as you hammer it in. This will allow you to hold onto the the fretwire and keep it perpendicular to the fretboard as you hammer it in, then nip to width with a sharp pair of heavy duty endcutters.

Haters please note -  feel to free to shout me down for boasting  about of how many guitars I've made - I'm just trying to give you the benefit of my experience, but maybe I'm doing it all wrong anyway!

On a side note: the Stewmac fret calculator doesn't give metric measurements unless they fixed it. It just gives the same standard measurements with a "mm" behind it. At least that's what happened to me a couple of monthes ago. You'll have to convert the standard to metric yourself or use a conversion table online. I shot them an email about it and got a stupid response of "our calculator isn't a conversion table". I guess giving the wrong info isn't a problem for them. Like ChickboneJohn said, Using the metric measurements are better because the measurements are smaller and more accurate. Always measure from the nut to each fret and double check before you cut.

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