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danish oil, tung oil?

Newby needs some help. I've done a couple of guitars with red oak necks & fretboards. I've stained the necks then poly coats. Have only stained the fretboards.

Now, I've got a neck almost complete. It's maple with a walnut fretboard. The frets are installed already (probably a mistake).

I'm thinking Danish Oil on both first to set deep in the wood. Then something extra on the maple neck only for a satin finish, maybe poly?

I like the idea of the danish oil's finish soaking into the wood.....Looking for ideas from more experienced builders. I like the raw colors and the natural tints of the woods so I'd like to enhance the grain but I'm not looking to darken the woods. What would you do and why?

Fretboard: Lemon oil, Olive oil, Danish oil, Tung oil, tru oil?

Maple Neck: Danish oil with poly coat, Tung oil buffed a little, tru oil?

Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on July 23, 2015 at 8:38am

Good advice on the safety issues John. I always soak the paper towels I use in water , then spread them out away from any combustibles and let them "dry out" before ever putting them in a trash can.

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Permalink Reply by Jim Woods on July 23, 2015 at 9:32am

+1 for the Danish oil for me.

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Permalink Reply by Blues Frog on July 23, 2015 at 10:42am

So far on my fretboards I have only used Lemon Oil. However, they say NOT to use lemon oil on maple. For a nice finish, I like using the Tung oil. Formsbee makes a nice solid coating, and brings the grain out nicely.

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Permalink Reply by Primitive Acoustics on July 23, 2015 at 1:32pm

I have been very happy with Tru Oil. Multiple coats with a steelwool rub down between each coat.

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Permalink Reply by Graeme L on July 24, 2015 at 8:26pm

Danish oil for me, 2 or 3 coats leaves the neck so silky smooth.....

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Permalink Reply by Rooster on July 25, 2015 at 4:23am

I have had very good luck with Tru Oil on the necks and it's very easy to apply. You can build up as many coats as you like then use #0000 steelwool to take it to a satin finish if you don't like glossy. You can even use it on the box. On the fretboards I have been using ColorTone Fretboard Finishing Oil from Stew-Mac. It's $15 a bottle but a little goes a long way so the bottle should last forever. On the next few builds I'm going to try Danish Oil on the necks to see how I like that.

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Permalink Reply by Bama Hound on July 25, 2015 at 7:32am

You gonna love this little bit if temporary insanity. I had a top to an entertainment armoire, (back when a TV would fit in such stuff), I had shot a last topcoat (lacquer). I was trying to get in a box and gone so I hauled it outside in the sun. Everybody put this on your "Don't Try It." list. I had bubbles going big time in minutes. LOL It is funny now, but it was a living at the time.

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on July 25, 2015 at 8:53am

I tape off the fret board and use Minwax high gloss varnish on the rest of the guitar. I start with it thinned half and half with mineral spirits. Then after a couple of coats I up the concentration to 2/3 varnish 1/3 spirits.

When I am done with that, I uncover the fret board and give it about five coats of mineral oil AKA baby oil. It works well, it,is easymto renew later. Just clean lightly woth a mr eraser just damp, dry and give more coats.

Last go round, I picked up the fast dry mixture by accident. I like the minway fast dry even better than the standrd. It levels right out when applying. I use a cheap rubber brush to apply and then just throw,it away.

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Permalink Reply by Al LaFaver on July 26, 2015 at 5:57am

OK. 2 follow ups.....

1-I'm going to install frets first, then apply Danish oil. Is this the order y'all go in?

2-For 0000 steel wool, are y'all using real steel wool or synthetic?

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Permalink Reply by Andy Faulkner on July 27, 2015 at 1:50am

I use old English lemon dark or light gives me the color I like. neck fret board and box all get a few coats over time

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Permalink Reply by Al Williams on July 28, 2015 at 1:54pm

Hi all, I'm also a newby here. Interesting to learn about the spontaneous combustion of the linseed oil rags. I used to use it on most of my wooden creations, never had a problem with the rags bursting into flames, maybe they use a different formula these days? It was called Raw Linseed Oil in those days (I'm 73) and it was my favorite wood preserver. Wished I remembered it when doing my first guitar build.

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Permalink Reply by TN Twang on July 29, 2015 at 2:50am

Be wary! It's the "mineral spirits" that give off heat when they evaporate--unlike water, which cools when it evaporates. Bunch your old rags into a tight bundle and the heat can ignite the mineral spirits (and oil) that remains on the rag. More than one new home has been burned to the ground by an incompetent painter piling rags on the floor.

The federally mandated "fix" of putting in water in a sealed container and disposing as a hazardous chemical is awfully complicated. Personally, I spread the rags on a concrete slab or hang them on a metal chain-link fence until they are completely dry. Then they're safe to toss.