Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on May 2, 2015 at 8:54am

You can probably just replace the chuck and tap a new thread for a solid bolt in the depth stop ;)
But I agree, you don't get what you don't pay for, (not new at any rate) if you want cheap get on ebay and get a real old one

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on May 2, 2015 at 12:20pm

Bummer dude. Hope you didn't pay to much for it. I've heard this before and it's true. Cheap tools are expensive to use. I've had the same Dewalt drill for almost 20 years. Before that I went threw two black and deckers in a five year span. 

If it's a belt drive check to see if your belt is tight. Replacing that with a better belt may help as well. Or even if it's alined properly. 

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Permalink Reply by Goldsmithexile on May 3, 2015 at 8:58am

I got a pair of makita drill-drivers about 6 years ago, they are as sound today as the day I got them, on a special deal from screwfix (UK retailer) I think it was £99 all in, about 50% off. They have done all sorts, drill into wood steel and concrete, mixed plaster with them too. Batteries still good, bearings still good, clutch still good. Worth every penny, the one power tool I really value, totally reliable.

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Permalink Reply by Dane Donato on May 2, 2015 at 1:00pm

Just return it for a refund or an exchange. It is a mixed bag there. You get some great bargains, and absolute crap, all in the same day. 

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Permalink Reply by Bluesheart on May 3, 2015 at 4:11am

Maybe I'll try that Wayfinder. I did use brad point bits but could do a better job hand held!

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on May 3, 2015 at 9:14am

Many, many years ago (say 30) I purchased a cast iron drill press made in China. It was very heavy which was good. What wasn't good, was that the chuck was very cheap and inaccurate.

I totally disassembled the drill press and cleaned a heap of casting sand out of the insides (where the bearing were pressed in. Cleaned & greased everything, bought a good chuck and still use it today.

It was a cheap tool poorly assembled, but basically a good design. A little work and a bit of extra expense turned it into an excellent tool.

Point being: If it could be a good tool with a little extra work, consider that versus trying a second hand one that may or may not be in good shape. Just a thought.......

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on May 22, 2015 at 2:07am

I hand drill my tuning machine holes.  I have learned a few tricks the hard way.  I finally got brad point bits which helped a whole lot.  No more drill bit wander when starting the hole.

I just drill the tuner hole very carefully, trying to keep the drill at 90 degrees fro the face in both axis'.  Being sure to center punch the hole first.  Also, I clamp a scrap piece behind the neck to prevent blow out.  To drill the  larger bore for the tuner trim ring, I have invented a trick.  I use a countersink bit and just go in a little ways.  This will self center the larger bit.  If you go a little extra deep with the countersink, it will help prevent tear out on the top.  Any extra countersink will be covered by the trim ring..

I have built a drill guide by gluing 2 Oak flooring pieces together.  They are very square from the store.  Then I drill through, by borrowing time on a  good drill press.  I haven't tried it on a headstock yet, but it works well for drilling the neck for a hanger screw.

I use my 6 year old Makita cordless drill/driver.  I use this drill almost every day either in my part time handyman job or building guitars.

For fret dots, I don't drill.  I use a paper punch to cut out 1/4" circles from self sticking mylar.  It works good, looks good and they don't come off.  I am too terrified to drill into a newly built fretboard.

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Permalink Reply by John Sawyer on May 23, 2015 at 5:10am

I had one of those, and yes, they drill triangular holes... The issue is a bad/sloppy bearing/bushing? at the head.   I ended up getting a good one at a garage sale... drills through anything with a great adjustable table.

THere are some decent tools... my HF belt sander was $90 and has done an amazing job.   My son's $9 cordless drill won't do construction work, but it's awesome for light duty stuff...  

I agree: Return it..  you'll find a good one, sometimes a great tool find can be had at an estate sale or craigslist.

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Permalink Reply by john mackay on May 23, 2015 at 11:25pm

a lot of tools are made in china these days so don't be fooled by brand name's.

cheap brand names doesn't mean quality.

I'm a member on a UK welding forum.

you wouldn't believe that some brand names are just as bad as chinese named tools like titan etc.

I had a titan bench drill ,chuck wasn't the brightest so I bought another chuck and it worked spot on.

I had that drill for about 10 years and still going strong even after I gave it to my son(got a better bench drill given).

I have a matek hand drill made by makita and that is a beast.

I think Makita over engineered on that one as it was much better than their own brand.

the matec cost me £45($70) to get the equivalent makita brand  is almost doubled. 

I bought a Makita cordless drill worked fine for about a year then the batteries won't hold charge for long about 15 minutes work then it needs recharging.my son has the same he gave up on that one.

tools nowadays aren't made to last or indeed the same quality of old.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on May 24, 2015 at 1:19pm

John,when your batteries die,just give them a jolt with your welder,2.5 mm rod,low amps [around 15],hold on terminals with polarity matched for a few seconds and battery should be good to recharge fully

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Permalink Reply by john mackay on May 25, 2015 at 9:52am

I've heard that before.thanks I'll bare that in mind.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on May 25, 2015 at 11:48am

should have mentioned,i,ve done this 5/6 times and no problems,BUT,i always protect myself,just in case

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