Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jim Mitchell on April 12, 2010 at 4:27pm

Hey Bruce - If you have a local Sam Ash you can get a set of ping tuners for about $17 bucks...That could be an extra set for your next CBG and no shipping.... If you want the open gear look pull the covers and you are good to go. Good luck on the rest of your build you are off to a great start. Take care - Jim

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on April 13, 2010 at 11:50am

Thanks for the tip and the compliment, Jim. Unfortunately there is not a Sam Ash close to me. Although, I did find a person locally that restores vintage guitars. I'm definitely going to be making a visit there.

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Permalink Reply by Clare on April 13, 2010 at 5:10pm

I like the threaded rod too, but broke about 3 scroll saw blades trying to cut it. Is there a better way?

MichaelS said:

I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.

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Permalink Reply by Alan Roberts on April 13, 2010 at 6:30pm

There's two roads you can go (probably more): buy a luthier's string gauge to measure exactly the distance between strings and frets (you'll use frets on your next build... and there WILL be a next build) with a nice bone nut/saddle. OR you can go to your local hardware store and pick up a gap/feeler gauge for a few bucks. The nut and saddle? I hit a local business that makes custom kitchen counters and picked up a lifetime supply of corian out of his trash bin. The nut and saddle get a lot of hard use. With all respect to Griz (who probably knows more than I), maple is a little on the soft side.

But I agree with him completely when he says "take it out if you don't like it." A bit harder to swap out than strings, but not much.

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Permalink Reply by Michael Gajeski on April 13, 2010 at 6:38pm

I use a hack saw, and then if it needs to be cleaned up take it to a bench grinder. I bet a cut off wheel on a dremel will also work well.

Clare said:

I like the threaded rod too, but broke about 3 scroll saw blades trying to cut it. Is there a better way?

MichaelS said:

I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.

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Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on April 14, 2010 at 1:38am

Just get a hack saw, put the rod in a vise and cut it off. I use a file to clean up the ends, and I soften the edges of the threads a little too, with the file. What do you use to make the grove in the neck for the rod/nut? I've been hand filing mine but it takes a long time.

Clare said:

I like the threaded rod too, but broke about 3 scroll saw blades trying to cut it. Is there a better way?

MichaelS said:

I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.

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Permalink Reply by Jonathan on April 14, 2010 at 5:05am

my first cbg was finished just now and then i realized the nut and saddle were way too high. gotta take em down, way down.

Matt Towe said:

You can do a few different things, but the best thing to do is set the peg head at 5/8" or 3/4" ... then buy tuner to fit. BUT you can make it fit the tuners you may already have.
Nut .. low as possible with out any fret buzz.
Here is what I do.
- total nut height is around 3/16"
- nut slot is same depth as frets .... ( easy to use same saw, and cut the nut slot then the fret slots)
- I only have around 1/8" or just a bit more above the fretboard, then cut string grooves to about 1 bizniz card thickness.
- Oak will work ... actually nice woody tone but not much sustain.
- small bolt probably better option
- IMHO Bone is best ( I use it exclusively)


Matt

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Permalink Reply by Alan Roberts on April 14, 2010 at 5:39am

Jonathan said:

my first cbg was finished just now and then i realized the nut and saddle were way too high. gotta take em down, way down.

Not a big problem. If they were way too LOW, you'd have to start over. Lower the action a little at a time.

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Permalink Reply by Clare on April 14, 2010 at 11:19am

Thanks Michael. I only used the threaded rod for the bridge and laid it directly on the cigar box. For the nut I used a little piece of 1/8" thick rosewood that I had. I used my fret saw and sawed small consecutive slots close together, then filed it down flat.

MichaelS said:

Just get a hack saw, put the rod in a vise and cut it off. I use a file to clean up the ends, and I soften the edges of the threads a little too, with the file. What do you use to make the grove in the neck for the rod/nut? I've been hand filing mine but it takes a long time.

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Permalink Reply by ken farmer on April 14, 2010 at 4:15pm

Regarding threaded rod - I've used that in the past, but these days prefer a 20p nail, round & smooth part of a 3/8th iron lag bolt, etc. A hacksaw or file can easily tear through that soft iron to make the slots you need.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on April 15, 2010 at 3:56am

Thank you, everyone, for your help and suggestions. I have a lot to consider and options to pursue.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on May 2, 2010 at 9:49am

Well, it's been a little and I've come a long way since starting my first build. I still have a bit to go but at least it's starting to look like something playable.
Sorry for more crappy phone pics.

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