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Head thickness and nut height

Ok, I've been lurking around here for a while and have read A LOT of good build advice and have started my first build and although it's going well so far, I've started thinking about my second . . . I should've heeded when so many have said it's an addiction.

So, on with my question:
Does the machine head determine the thickness of the head and what is a good starting height to set the nut?
Also, has anyone used oak for a nut and if so, what was your experience?

Thanks in advance for any comments and help.

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Permalink Reply by Grizz on April 10, 2010 at 2:06pm

I haven't used oak but I have used Maple for both the nut and the bridge to good effect. I should think oak would work as well. You can always take it out if you don't like it.

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on April 10, 2010 at 2:11pm

You can do a few different things, but the best thing to do is set the peg head at 5/8" or 3/4" ... then buy tuner to fit. BUT you can make it fit the tuners you may already have.
Nut .. low as possible with out any fret buzz.
Here is what I do.
- total nut height is around 3/16"
- nut slot is same depth as frets .... ( easy to use same saw, and cut the nut slot then the fret slots)
- I only have around 1/8" or just a bit more above the fretboard, then cut string grooves to about 1 bizniz card thickness.
- Oak will work ... actually nice woody tone but not much sustain.
- small bolt probably better option
- IMHO Bone is best ( I use it exclusively)

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on April 10, 2010 at 3:22pm

Thanks for your fast responses, Grizz and Matt.
You're right, Grizz. I can always take out the oak nut and replace it if I don't like it. I've made three nuts so far and the last one looks the best and will probably be the most usable (NO PUNS INTENDED).

Matt, I don't have my tuners yet. I'm still shopping. Sorry I didn't mention in my initial post but I'm building this one fretless. I thought fretting would be too much of an undertaking for my first build. Thanks for the specs, though. I'll definitely keep those in mind as I continue the build.
Do you make your own bone nuts or do you order from a maker?

The build so far:
Ashton box
Oak neck and nut (3 string)
Ted Crocker piezo bridge combo (and necessary wiring)
Need:
machine heads
butt plate

I haven't started putting anything together yet or shaping the neck. I have started marking the neck where the box and nut will go and parts that will be chiseled out. I thought it would be good to wait until I have ALL of the parts before cutting and shaping.

Thanks again for your help and comments.

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Permalink Reply by Outhouse Instruments on April 10, 2010 at 3:37pm

I buy a bone saddle blank and cut it to get 4 nuts, then slot them myself.
IMHO ... a regular guitar bone nut is too big for a CBG, but the saddles are the right thickness and it's only around 5 bucks at a local shop ..... a buck and a quarter per nut and some elbow grease ain't too shabby.

As far as tuning machines ... find a small mom-n-pop type place and ask if they had any used ones off of a parts guitar.

Matt

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Permalink Reply by Bob Holland on April 11, 2010 at 12:33am

During this time of year. Go to yard sales. Junk guitars pop up & even the broken ones still have good parts left on them. I'm accumulating parts also to do a build. My funds are limited since I just lost my day job.
BOB

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on April 11, 2010 at 2:17am

I'll have to check the local music shop and maybe start stopping at a few yard sales. Thanks for the suggestion, Bob.

Sorry to hear about your job situation. That stinks!

I'm also trying to keep the build at a reasonable cost. So far the most expensive parts are the electronics but I expected that with the Ted Crocker parts. It will still come in well under a Franklin.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on April 11, 2010 at 4:30am

+5 for Matt. 5/8-3/4" ought to do it for most tuners. Unless they are open gear type or that nature.

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Salty Sea Empire on April 11, 2010 at 5:53am

i use red oak for some of my cbgs and it works great. as far as the thickness of the head stock for me it really does depend on the machines

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Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on April 11, 2010 at 9:08am

I use the threaded rod or bolt for my nuts, I have found it to be nearly foolproof. It has built it adjustable string spacing, the slots are already angled correctly so there is no string buzz from the nut ( my screw head nuts needed filing to stop buzzing). Just remember to measure from the middle of the thread for scale length if using a threaded rod. I use oak for my floating bridges and they work fine, lots of sustain from the metal nut and oak bridge combo. As for the tuners, when asking for used tuners at the music shop see what there cheapest new tuners are first. The shop I go to wanted $2.00 each for used cheap tuners, and $12.00 for a new set of 6 econo tuners, I got the new ones. Good luck, have fun building, then playing.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce on April 11, 2010 at 2:05pm

Thanks for the help Salty Sea Empire and MichaelS! Much appreciated.

I had a good session tonight working on the build and I'm covered in wood dust. I got the neck fitted to the box . . . WooHoo! It's starting to look like a cbg! Waiting for some hardware to arrive from Ted Crocker next. Guess I better find some machine heads soon.

Sorry for the crappy phone pic.

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