I've seen (on line of course) a couple of CBGs where the builder created a small (1/8") gap between the top of the box and the neck (pass-through neck). I think this was done to allow the box top to resonate better when strings are played and the vibration is transferred through the bridge.
Anyone familiar with this technique? Has anyone tried it? Any thoughts?
Thanks
Tom T
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Thanks for the clarification. I've been using Titebond II.
I have tons of good wood clamps, but continue to struggle with getting a good, tight clamp on scarf joints without slipping. Clamping the long part of the neck to the work bench, then positioning the head stock with a block to keep it from sliding might work, but I haven't tried it yet. Any suggestions for keeping scarf joints stable when clamped?
Thanks
Tom T
Use a jig for clamping scarf joint.
Can be as simple as a scrap of plywood with two scrap pieces of neck material screwed to it to stop the pieces from moving when the clamps are applied.
Screwing on the stops let's you adjust for different neck lengths and angles.
If you wax the jig with floor wax the glue won't stick to it.
Thanks Robert.
The floor wax idea is nice. Hadn't thought of that.
I'll try laying out a jig/fixture to hold the scarf joint pieces in place.
Tom T
Another clever solution. I had thought about drilling a tiny hole through the two pieced then tapping in a tack or brad. The staple idea is much cleaner.
Thanks,
Tom T
I keep a table salt shaker in my glue area. A few grains of salt on the glue surface at each end of the surface will keep the pieces from sliding around when clamped. I use it every time I do a glue up. You can still force an adjustment but the pieces will not slide around as you tighten the clamps.
Fred, that is just an amazing tip! I will give it a try tomorrow, even if I have to cut to pieces of scrap. Thanks for a great idea.
By the way, is that Morton's Iodized salt or just Sea Salt?
TT
I use regular table salt like Morton's. Don't use too much salt or it will keep the pieces from joining tightly. Two salt crystals at each end of a small glue area will be enough. The salt crystals will be forced into the wood by clamping, thus, holding the wood in alignment. So a hard wood will need more clamping pressure to indent the salt crystals into the wood.
I've used too much salt before and been unable to clamp the pieces together. So, salt sparingly.
This tip has saved me a lot of time and aggravation. The slick surfaces of Tightbond are one of the negatives of using the glue.
-Fred
also, Don't use too much salt, it clogs the arteries
Thanks for the clarification. Knowing that too much creates its own problems is important. I'll do a test piece to get the technique down.
Great tip!
Thanks.
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