Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Titch the Clown on April 19, 2014 at 11:40pm

The traditional dye for oak is nightmare juice. Throw some rusty nails in a jar of vinegar. If you lack patience add some steel wool. Wait a bit. Rub the resultant liquid into the oak and it will react with the tannins in the oak to create an incredibly dark black traditional home made stain.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by David McQueen on April 20, 2014 at 12:19am

I tried a sample ebony stain on oak with no conditioner/filler prior. My sample turned into a zebra.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by robert jones on April 20, 2014 at 1:43am

Ammonia fuming works really well on most oak.

Fuming is not a dye it is a chemical reaction with the tannins in the wood.

The depth of color depends on the amount of time in the fuming chamber so is easily controllable.

The process enhances rather than obscures the grain making it especially appropriate for highly figured oak pieces.

The iron acetate described by Titch is used to ebonize any wood that has a tannin content.

Tannin can be artificially added to the surface of non tannin bearing woods by soaking the wood with strong tea then drying prior to applying the iron acetate.

Tea itself can make a very nice stain on oak if you don't mind dealing with the raised grain caused by using water based dyes.

That foul abomination sold as instant coffee works well as a stain too if you want a stronger red color.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by 14 buck bass (aka antonio) on April 20, 2014 at 3:25am

ive had some great results using dyse and stains on my oak necks richey.  ive tried different approaches to the applications of the stains, and my filler I use is titebond mixed with the saw dust of the neck im filling. It stains perfect to me.  And i love the cool grain patterns I get with the oak. I deliberatly try to stain for that though.  And that viniger jungle juice titch is talking about makes for a cool mellow look like an old stick.  I like it .

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on April 20, 2014 at 6:36pm

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I think I might give the ebonising a go.

A couple of questions though:

Do I rub it on after fine sanding and before applying finish?

Can I use Danish oil over it?

Cheers!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by G.S.Monroe on April 20, 2014 at 7:06pm

I would finish sand with a 320 grit, then apply the stain. Wipe off the excess, then after it is dried wet sand with shellac & 600 grit to fill and seal the wood. Complete the finish with more shellac or a varnish. As for the Danish Oil... I've never had any success with it over oak. Danish oil works best with cedar or pine, an absorptive soft wood. The Oak is too hard.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on April 20, 2014 at 8:00pm

Interesting, thanks. I do use Danish oil on oak all the time and I think it's fine, although I'm not really into a super deep or thick finish. I thin down the first 2 coats with white spirit and to my taste it looks and feels good.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by robert jones on April 21, 2014 at 2:11am

Sand to a fine bare wood finish.

Apply stain/dye/fume.

Wait until thoroughly dry and check for raised grain. Iron acetate solution is primarily water based so expect application to raise the wood grain.

If no raised grain and color is suitable lightly polish with 1500 to 2000 grit wet dry paper then apply finish coat, Danish oil is fine.

If there is raised grain determine if it can be corrected by burnishing or if it will need sanding.

If sanding is required do so and reapply colorant. Usually grain raising is eliminated after the first application and subsequent sanding.

If burnishing will correct the problem do that and go to finishing stage. Burnishing is unlikely to negatively affect color.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Dan Mullen on April 20, 2014 at 11:05pm

I've taken a minwax red mahogany stain and brushed a med/heavy coat on with a good brush.  Let that dry about 24 hours and it will give you a dark rich color.  No wiping, just let it soak in and dry.  I have finished this type of stain with tung oils, polys, and spray lacquers.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on April 22, 2014 at 5:58pm

Thanks for all the great responses guys. I'm going to try a couple. One I'm going to use Rustin's walnut dye, and the other the vinegar and steel wool trick.

Which vinegar should I use? Distilled/malt/white wine/red wine/sherry/40 year old balsamic? :)

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by robert jones on April 23, 2014 at 1:06am

Keep it simple (cheap) use any 5% pickling vinegar, 7% if your store carries it.

Wash the steel wool in hot water to remove any oil present.

Shake the excess water from the cleaned steel wool.

Place steel wool in glass jar, cover with vinegar and rest lid on top to prevent debris falling into container.

DO NOT tighten the lid before all chemical reaction has ceased.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on April 22, 2014 at 7:07pm

I have no experience with oak.

But try some food dye on some scrap, it's super cheap. Just remember some disposable gloves :)

• ▶ Reply