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Permalink Reply by Matt Philip on October 12, 2009 at 8:59am

yeah that's what I was thinking 5 mix's to create the fade each with more water

Diane said:

You mean artist inks? That's an interesting idea! I have some of those in the studio. Will you dilute with water?

Matt Philip said:

wow good to see so many people interested, I think I may try ink it's cheap, really vibrant and permanent.

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Permalink Reply by Will Carter on October 12, 2009 at 2:20pm

Here is a trick I picked up in Japan...
I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.

This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)

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Permalink Reply by Matt Philip on October 12, 2009 at 2:39pm

this sounds really interesting I would love to see pictures

Will Carter said:

Here is a trick I picked up in Japan...
I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.

This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)

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Permalink Reply by R Johnson on October 12, 2009 at 4:09pm

Here is another site that uses a rattle can to sunburst


http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0000.hzml

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Permalink Reply by Will Carter on October 14, 2009 at 9:58pm

Here you go. This is an oak "Fanned" fretboard stained with the black rust. The staining job took 5 minutes and 1 one minute to patch up after fretting/sanding.
The later photo is after a very light coat of varnish, turning the black stain a rich dark brown.
I am happy with it seeing as it cost nothing.

Matt Philip said:

this sounds really interesting I would love to see pictures

Will Carter said:

Here is a trick I picked up in Japan...
I call it fake ebonising. You put some clean steel wool in a jar with some water (I use filtered) and agitate the steel wool by shaking the now sealed jar. In a few days the steel wool will rust and go into the water. I keep a jar of it and it lasts forever. If you use just the water minus the steel wool the wood will stain , if you use the wool itself the wood goes completely black.

This is better than using ink as the wood texture is not effected only the colour. I generally have to seal the wood with either laquor or varnish or anything to stope the black coming off, but if you can buff the wood you should be good to go. I will post some pics on the ebonised fretboards I have recently done. Hope this helps as a cheap arse solution to he staining situation :)

Attachments:

• back of fretboard.JPG, 1.7 MB
• just stained.JPG, 1.6 MB
• varnished over stain.JPG, 1.7 MB

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Permalink Reply by J. K. on October 15, 2009 at 3:26am

Nice results with the rust technique. Any idea how it works with tung oil or cellulose based finishes?

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