Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on October 16, 2016 at 5:25pm

It is a nice git, I see the frets the same, it does look a little out, i hope you can move the bridge back without harming the face, you could make a new plate for the bridge out of aluminium, just a bit longer and use your existing mount holes if need be

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Permalink Reply by Richard Wilkins on October 17, 2016 at 12:54am

iPhone cameras produce significant optical distortion. Currently the distance from nut to 12th is 12-3/4 and from 12th to where the string meets the bridge is 12-3/4. But that's with the saddle screwed all the way back. And I've got a lot of space between the strings and the fret board. I think I'll need to lower the nut and move bridge back a little. I like Darryl's idea. Not a metal worker so I may have to think of something else. Great idea though!

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Permalink Reply by Timothy Hunter on October 17, 2016 at 2:11am

you can lower the string height at the bridge with the 2 little allen screws in the bridge piece....

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Permalink Reply by Richard Wilkins on October 17, 2016 at 2:19am

Thanks Timothy, yep they're down as far as they can go without strings hitting frets or pickup. :)

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Permalink Reply by JL on October 17, 2016 at 2:38am

1) Measure
2) mark with pencil
3) Measure again
4) mark again with pencil, erase previous pencil mark, scratch head
5) Measure again
6) Feel better that marks line up
7) Mount
8) Cuss like a sailor 'cause it still came out wrong, lol

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Permalink Reply by Richard Wilkins on October 18, 2016 at 12:29pm

This is EXACTLY what happened! :)

Exactly.

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Permalink Reply by Jim Morris on October 17, 2016 at 2:59am

Did the nut come with the neck or did you make it? On some of my builds when the intonation was off I discovered that I hadn't angled the nut slots enough so the string was contacting the nut on the tuner side rather than the neck side . This lengthens the scale by 1/8 to 1/4" depending on the nut width and can cause frustrating problems unless you figure out what's going on. 

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Permalink Reply by Richard Wilkins on October 18, 2016 at 1:31pm

It came with the neck but I had to file the slots. Made a deliberate effort to file down at an angle towards tuners. Might be time to try Zero Nut? lol

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Permalink Reply by Jim Morris on October 18, 2016 at 1:46pm

I've had a similar problem with a zero fret when I didn't have the guide slots cut deep enough to allow the string to make good contact with the zero fret. Fomorach's suggestion to capo on fret #1 is a good way to see if the nut is the problem. 

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Permalink Reply by Fomhorach on October 17, 2016 at 5:02am

Have a look at your nut distance too (from first fret) and check that it's correct. If it's wrong it will throw up all sorts of problems.

There's an easy way to check this. Put a capo loosly on the first, tune up then check the intonation for the first 5-6 frets. Take the capo off then retune and check again the first 5-6 frets. The results should be the same.

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Permalink Reply by Richard Wilkins on October 18, 2016 at 1:11pm

alright... I put a capo on first fret, tuned up and .... the guitar is immediately playable. Gorgeous sounding!!!! Very nice all the way up the fret board.

Took capo off, tuned up (open GDG) and.... yuk. Sour notes all the way up.

Measuring from fretboard facing side of nut to where high G string touches bridge is 25 -1/2. Measuring from nut to 12th fret on high G is 12 -3/4. Measuring from 12th fret to where high G string touches bridge is 12 - 3/4.... But the more I look at this nut.... especially the bottom pic...

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on October 18, 2016 at 1:21pm

that test seems to suggest that your effective fret spacing from nut to f 1 is out,maybe the leading edge of the nut is rolled a bit , and the actual contact point is further towards the tuners

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