Seems like (for me) there's a learning curve when it comes to finishing a neck.
So far I've tried minwax stain in the past and now just tried formsbys (high gloss).
The formbys has left a sticky feeling. I realize your suppose to coat several times but this is already sticky.. I read somewhere sanding after 1 coat not advisable as your just removing what you just oiled /varnished....
Which brings me to another subject ...is this real tung oil or a combination of tung oil and varnish...I think it's the latter
One thing about fretted necks is if you finish them after you fret the neck it's extremely hard to sand if you run into problems such as I ...
So a few questions please
1. How do I make the formbys not sticky or should I remove it or sand it or steel wool it?
2. Next time should I finish a neck before fretting?

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I would give the neck more time to cure.  That may take a few more days.  Bring it into a climate controlled place to reduce the humidity.  I have been using Truoil on all my builds and I have been happy with the outcome so far.  I cut the fret grooves in the finger board and finish sand it down to about 2000 grit.  Then apply about 3 coats of Truoil, giving each coat a day to dry and sanding with steel wool between coats.

Before installing the fret wire, I chase each slot with the fret saw to clean out the finish. The down side to this method is you need to be very careful with the files while finishing the fret wire.  I use a file on a block to angle the side of the frets after a new install, this cuts into the edge of the fretboard just a bit and requires a thin coat of finish once complete. I also fill the ends of the fret slots and use that coat to glue the filling dust in place.

Yeah I will give it many days for sure. And I might try your approach next time with finishing before fretting wire ..
I'm looking for the magic solution that after sanding a neck with very fine grit sandpaper and the neck is baby smooth almost glass like...you can put on a few coats of ??? that looks like glass and protects without too much hassle. I may just be wishing for something that don't exist without elbow grease

Ah, the search for the elusive magic solution... practice, practice, practice = experience. :-P

Get the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil that Dan mentioned.

One of the easiest protective finishes to apply.

It dries fast to a hard finish.

That's interesting they don't ship to CA. It's oil...??

It's a mix of natural oils but people over in Cali are real delicate and every substance known to man causes them to break out in cancer.

To top it off it's primary use is for gunstock finishing ( shudder, the horror!) giving it a double whammy in Nannyland so if you have the miserable luck of living there you'll have to use subterfuge to get some.

I live in the very non nannyland part...I totally agree...

AS YOU ALL KNOW, YOU JUST CAN'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE AND HEAR, CAN YOU. NOW, - jimi hendrix

LOL I worked in Tulares for about a year and that's all I could stand of it.

ebay sellers don't care about shipping to CA...  I still use Danish Oil, or boiled linseed oil.. takes longer to dry than Tru-Oil, but I have quarts of it laying about...

Seems like steel wool 0000 is good. Might try some sandpaper also fine grit.

I make a fret board which I do not clear until its attached to the neck.  This way I can fret/file the frets separate from the neck. And the neck can be sanded and stained without the fret board... which equals less worries.  But I clear the whole thing once they're together with PolyAcrylic (water based = happy clean up).

Don't understand. The neck is the fretboard ? Although I sometimes glue an extra piece of wood for the fretboard...please explain
Cool. I like that. Thank you

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