I am 'picky' about my picks, but I like the penny pick and just used it on a video.
The frets on the purple git and some others skip the 6th and 8th frets to make it easier to play barre chords with a boogie note. Odd, but works for me.
Hey, you are a nature lover / bird watcher. Do you know why when we see terns we almost never see one alone?
The under saddle p/u's are home made using OT101 PVDF coax .You can find detailed instructions on www.liutaiomottola.com the PVDF coax can be obtained from sales@ormal.co.uk the contact there is David Armitage.
Thanks for your kind comments John , most appreciated !
Im hopeless on computers but go to the top right of page and search "DATEING BOXES"
about 3rd one down "NEED HELP DATING BOXES " now ....in there is a link to the
"National Cigar Museum" and there youll find a tresure of information to help date your boxes . Your King Edward should be easy ..there should be a blue tax stamp with the date stamped on it ,just looked at mine and its 1954.Good luck !
John, in answer to your question about upper and lower case letters in tuning notation, this is usually used to differentiate between notes that are an octave apart.
The idea comes from a couple of formal systems of notation: Helmholtz Notation (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_pitch_notation ) and "ABC" notation. However people don't often stick precisely to those systems, so you have to be careful about which octave a note is in. But generally the meaning tends to be reasonably clear once you start tuning. As long as you pay attention to how a string sounds and feels as you tune it up and you stop before you break it then you should be OK.
A tuning written as GDgb would be (going from the thickest string to the thinest) G, D seven semitones up, G an octave above the low G, and B above that.
A normal guitar tuning might be written as EADgbe or EADGBe - but in proper Helmholz notation it would be E-A-d-g-b-e'.
Sharps are usually written with a letter follwed by #
Flats are usually written with a letter followed by "b" - which looks a bit like a flat symbol. If you need to write "b flat" then I guess you have to use your imagination...(one way is to simply stop using upper and lower case and write Bb)
Hi John, thanks for the nice comments. Getting a good finish is mostly just down to patience and a bit of elbow grease with abrasives - but it's not essential. Rough 'n' ready is a perfectly fine approach too and has produced many fine instruments. At the end of the day it's more about how the thing plays and sounds and - most of all - about the general spirit of the whole business.
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Thanks for the comments, John! ;)
I'm glad to have you as a friend John and also glad to be a part of the movement and a part of the cigar box nation.
Glad to have you as a friend John and to be a part of this movement and a part of the cigar box nation.
John,
I am 'picky' about my picks, but I like the penny pick and just used it on a video.
The frets on the purple git and some others skip the 6th and 8th frets to make it easier to play barre chords with a boogie note. Odd, but works for me.
Hey, you are a nature lover / bird watcher. Do you know why when we see terns we almost never see one alone?
No problem John. DBA is "Doing Business As" or rather an alias of you instead of a true business entity.
eg: Wes Yates DBA Chronic Blues Cigar Box Guitars. I don't have a 'real' business but call what I do as that.
-WY
Thanks for your kind comments John , most appreciated !
Im hopeless on computers but go to the top right of page and search "DATEING BOXES"
about 3rd one down "NEED HELP DATING BOXES " now ....in there is a link to the
"National Cigar Museum" and there youll find a tresure of information to help date your boxes . Your King Edward should be easy ..there should be a blue tax stamp with the date stamped on it ,just looked at mine and its 1954.Good luck !
Hey John. yes i found a box! huzzar! lol. its a cherry one. should be great.
as for your find. small tho it is. what about making a model? ive never seen a real model cbg/ itd be sweet. regards Squid.
John, in answer to your question about upper and lower case letters in tuning notation, this is usually used to differentiate between notes that are an octave apart.
The idea comes from a couple of formal systems of notation: Helmholtz Notation (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_pitch_notation ) and "ABC" notation. However people don't often stick precisely to those systems, so you have to be careful about which octave a note is in. But generally the meaning tends to be reasonably clear once you start tuning. As long as you pay attention to how a string sounds and feels as you tune it up and you stop before you break it then you should be OK.
A tuning written as GDgb would be (going from the thickest string to the thinest) G, D seven semitones up, G an octave above the low G, and B above that.
A normal guitar tuning might be written as EADgbe or EADGBe - but in proper Helmholz notation it would be E-A-d-g-b-e'.
Sharps are usually written with a letter follwed by #
Flats are usually written with a letter followed by "b" - which looks a bit like a flat symbol. If you need to write "b flat" then I guess you have to use your imagination...(one way is to simply stop using upper and lower case and write Bb)
Hi John, thanks for the nice comments. Getting a good finish is mostly just down to patience and a bit of elbow grease with abrasives - but it's not essential. Rough 'n' ready is a perfectly fine approach too and has produced many fine instruments. At the end of the day it's more about how the thing plays and sounds and - most of all - about the general spirit of the whole business.
Hi John,
Thanks a lot for your listening to our music and the impressive comment.
Keep on Rockin' !
Best Regards,
Tj from Japan (beated)
hi john :) thanks for the comment mate, your build is cool & unique too.
paul sparks? sorry bud, thats not me. cheers,,,paul
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