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-WY

Sure do. Traditionally used is a key (skeleton/old) or threaded stock of any usable size. I build instruments that have parts like guitars so I use either bone or corian. Bone for the nut and saddle/bridge or corian. Both cut well on a band saw and can be sanded easy. Corian is a little softer but a little slicker so the nut never gets jammed. But bone does polish up better.

I have also used a piece of 12ga house wire (stripped) glued onto a wood saddle. Works well too.

Either one works.

-WY

No, not at all. That's what we are all here for.

Bridge/nut height eh. Well that is a variable answer. No specific heights, but for the nut... lemme see if I can make this sound sensible.

Ok, so I build with a 1/4" fretboard (oak from lowes lets say) and I fret so I have 1/4" plus maybe another 1/32"-1/16" for frets. That all depends on the frets too, so... Anyhow, I like to have about 1/32" +/- between the first fret and the string. NOW, there is no fast rule on that. String clearance should be to your taste. On a fretless, I usually do 1/16" - 3/32" because folks usually use a slide at that point. Again, no hard and fast rule.

As for the bridge. Again variable from build to build but I like to make the string height at the last fret ~3-4mm (yep mm). That requires me to guess the bridge height, usually over, and trim down.I use an old piece of fishing line as a makeshift string so I don't mess up a real string.

So overall, I would say its kinda to your taste as to how the 'action' sets up.

Hey David,

Glad to hear you are building and soon to be playing. So as you will find out here on the Nation that there are 'no rules' so by that I'll tell you what I do.

I make 4 string CBGs and use the DGBe strings and I tune them likewise. For a 3 string, you can tune DAD, DGB, ADD, DF#A, whatever you want that would be an open tuning. If you want a great set of DVDs, check out Keni Lee Burgess here on the Nation. He's the best.

Let me know if you need anything.