Table saws...? for getting Thin Wood

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Wiley Rutledge on May 12, 2011 at 7:59pm

I'd go with a tabletop bandsaw instead. As cheap and probably a straighter cut, narrower kerf and safer IMHO.

Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 12, 2011 at 8:01pm

hey, I tried a bandsaw, but the blade broke just trying to cut a 2 inch piece of lumber.

problem with band is you need a really powerful one with high cutting ability.

 

 

Permalink Reply by Richard Sanabia on May 12, 2011 at 8:28pm

Hi Jim, Unless you are going to do a lot of building, buy the wood you need, and have a cabinet shop slice the wood and then be able to have them sand it down to your specs. You would need a strong bandsaw with a re-saw blade to slice the wood. Table saw re-sawing is spooky, requiring an accurate fence and good way to keep the thinning stock straight and even. Any "wobble" will cause burn marks on the wood surface. If you live near East Tennessee I'll cut and sand it for you.  Richard

James Boutilier said:

hey, I tried a bandsaw, but the blade broke just trying to cut a 2 inch piece of lumber.

problem with band is you need a really powerful one with high cutting ability.

 

 

Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 12, 2011 at 8:34pm

Thanks mate-- but im in Eastern Canada.

You'd think there's be a place here for that.

 

Even our specialty hardwood shops can only mill down to 1/4 inch.

 

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on May 12, 2011 at 8:46pm

James,

 

A table saw is the wrong tool for cutting thin sections.  I have successfully cut 1/4 inch thick fretboards on a tablesaw, but had a lot of loss doing it.   Definately stay away from table top/direct drive models... too much wobble is common in most of these.   A word about "contractors" models that are overgrown table models.  They are great for cutting soft pine 1X and 2X boards, but 4 inch thick hardwood, sorry.   If you must go tablesaw, get the biggest old cast iron bodied, belt-driven beast you can afford. Then get a really sharp blade and push the wood really slowly.  Even then 4 inch sections are going to be tough to do.

 

A bandsaw is a much better choice, if.... you get one that is big enough, strong enough and has a good rip fence.  Bandsaws are what the industry uses, but, these are usually big hp beasties.  Again, table top models are worthless for this application.  Even most 12" belt drive bandsaws intended for the home woodworking shop are a little weak.  And, blade narrower that 1/2 inch will just twist too much for resawing.

 

Unless you just enjoy doing the impossible (well, almost impossible) or you are going to be doing huge quantities that would justify the purchase of a $ 1,000+ bandsaw, keep looking for wood sources.  My son is a professional instrument maker/repair tech.  This winter he bought a bandsaw for "resawing" that would cost $ 2,400 new (thought he got a bargain at $ 800 used, knowing that there was some reworking to do on it)  Better to pay a hefty premium of the wood, than to burn money on tools that (literally) won't cut it and only chew up otherwise great wood.

 

Just my (not so) humble opinion.

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 12, 2011 at 9:08pm

Yeah, sadly, that's what I've been thinking. tablesaw for 1/4 frets, and neck blocking but thats about it.

 

I thought about getting it in 1/4 inch thick pieces, and getting a 12 inch thickness planer.  lot of waste but possibly decent results.

 

 

Permalink Reply by Thomas on May 12, 2011 at 9:21pm

Jim.   My suggestion (being in pretty much the same boat) is to have your neck blanks cut for you, this is'nt a big job and shouldn't be pricey at all. Other wise, I have an old Tanner 10" table saw (not a precise machine) and now a 6" jointer planer. I intend to face a near-enough cut length (and square the sides), the back will be shaped anyway. I have a thicknesser and a big 2hp router on my wish list.

Hope this helps a little.

Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 12, 2011 at 9:37pm

Hey Thomas-- your thicknesser, what size are you using, and do you get much (whats the word?) bumping on the ends?

I was told a 6 inch jointer can actually work as good.  Is it possible to get my wood cut into 1/4 inch planks and the use the 6 inch jointer to thin it down?  or would you recommend the thicknesser?

 

and thanks, it does help -- seems we think a little alike.

Permalink Reply by Mr. Toad on May 12, 2011 at 9:46pm

If you use a table saw, which is what I use, use a thin kerf blade and don't cut all the way through in one pass. Cut half way through, then flip the piece of wood end for end and then cut the other half through. Make sure you use a push stick for safety.

Permalink Reply by James Boutilier on May 12, 2011 at 9:47pm

Mr. Toad, may I ask what size and motor you are using ?

 

Permalink Reply by Wiley Rutledge on May 12, 2011 at 9:52pm

Jointer is a good idea I think.  I'd make a backer plate for getting it thin enough, basically just a board with a stop on the end to keep good pressure and control---and some protection if it should blow up due to a knot or runout that might get caught.  There's some good pics and plans for homemade thicknessers online too.  Nicolas Hambas who makes dulcimers (Hambasdulcimers.com  ) has a plan on his web site.

Possibly even cheaper might be to lock a belt sander in a vise upside down and use it like a free sanding belt, or use a good Stanley/Bailey Plane (you can find on E-Bay for well under 100.00 US) to do the final thicknessing if you can get 1/4 inch stuff.

Permalink Reply by Thomas on May 12, 2011 at 11:11pm

getting down to the 10mm thickness is a problem on my jointer, (so not making fret boards yet) not a safe thing to da at all. I was hunting for an old school 4" jointer planer, this would do all i need. As for the thicknesser, I would still use the planer and sand for final finish. To get a smooth flat face, the thicknesser's I have used are great for the chippy (builder). For the joiner/furniture maker a better quality machine is rearly needed. As a rule of thumb,  "Old School".    Most things were made of a better quality and can be found much cheeper as an old machine. Expect to have to refurbish one though.

 

As for turning your jointer into a thicknesser, i plan to do so.  Two bearing'd rollers ( one each side of the cutting head, 150 - 200mm apart ) sprung on a gimble. This would be upside down putting pressure on the top of the wood.

 

Just some ideas, hope it helps.

 

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