Daft Question - Neck length

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Wiley Rutledge on May 4, 2011 at 4:50pm

It do. Nut to bridge is VSL (vibrating string length) or simply string length. The figures you mention seem about but VSL is the critical length. Fret calculators give distance from nut to fret.

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on May 4, 2011 at 6:15pm

"They" say that you often get better/louder sound if your bridge is somewhat in the center of your box.

Permalink Reply by Alan Roberts on May 4, 2011 at 7:22pm

22" is a BIT shorter than commercial guitars (Fender Mustang 22.5", Gibson Byrdland 23.5"). If you've been playing a Fender Strat (25.5") all your life, it might take a little bit of getting used to it. If you're like the rest of us, you won't even notice.

I've been taking a tuning fork with me every time I go to my favorite tobacconist. I strike the fork and press it against any box I'm looking at. The juty is still out on best place to put the bridge, but it has helped me avoid some lemons. 

Diane in Chicago said:

"They" say that you often get better/louder sound if your bridge is somewhat in the center of your box.

Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on May 4, 2011 at 7:24pm

You're in pretty good shape.  where the bridge is on th box affects the tone quality... closer to the tail of the box, more guitar, closer to the middle of the top, more banjo like.   I tend to use a +3 inches for the head stock... largest number of tuners on one side (2+2 design is 2, 3+1 design is 3, 4 inline is 4)  So, a 2+2 desgn would cut a minimum =5.

 

So, if you have a 10 inch box that you do a 1/4 bridge placement and a 3+1 headstock design and a 25 inch scale length, the neck you would have  would measure

 

2.5 + 25 + 6 = 33.5 inches.... remember to add for an exposed tail piece...

 

I think that covers it... more people would know what you're talking about if you use "Scale Length" and not "String Length"...

 

the best,

 

Wichita Sam

Permalink Reply by David Shields on May 5, 2011 at 3:33am

Thanks everyone, much clarity ensues.

Alan: given that my normal instrument is a bass, everything will seem short! Haven't picked up my 12 string in about 2 years.

Diane, Sam: Good point re bridge positioning and tone, I'd not considered that.

Plan is 3 string dulcimer / diatonic fretted, piezo pickup, with no / little protruding tail. I'd even considered not having a full thru neck, going down the guitar route where neck just enters top of box for a few inches. Is this a bad idea for sound / stability and strength or will it work out ok?

Also, with piezo's, would you recommend building a buffer to match impedances with my little practice amp?

 

David

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on May 5, 2011 at 7:53am

I've made several neck-almost-thru builds, where the end of the neck butts up against the inside of the box at the tail end and the tailpiece screws into it, so it functions as a tailblock as well.  I build up a pretty substantial heel along the lower end of the neck that goes through the box so I have plenty to cut away for neck angle and for a recess under the lid.  I tend to steer away from bolt-ons because I have not figured out a good way for me to do it yet.  Some I've built that way have failed - either at the bolt on point or the box imploded after some time under string tension.  The neck-almost-thru is pretty easy construction and there is lots of fudge factor you can do that is hidden inside the box.

Permalink Reply by David Shields on May 5, 2011 at 8:02am

Mmm, think I'll go for neck-amost-thru in that case. I just feel protruding tailpiece is ugly.

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on May 5, 2011 at 6:13pm

I agree.  More fun to come up with a cool way to mount the strings with a hinge or a doorplate or whatever scrap if wood is at hand.