Comment

Comment by carverman on November 18, 2010 at 2:22pm

The router jig that I see pictured actually is a modification of two
parallel arms on which the router slides back and forth on the Y axis.
The gun stock is attached to a X "fence" which forms the X axis
and probably on a long thread screw shaft that is turned by a wheel,
similiar to a lathe.

The router being counterbalanced (I think) is under hand control
and the operator can determine how deep the bit penetrates in
the wood by pushing up (or down) on the handle.

This seems to be a viable and simple solution.

Comment by carverman on November 18, 2010 at 2:16pm

I have a router pantograph for making signs. it allows the router
to be mounted on the parallelogram arms, and you use one end
of the the parallellogram to trace a 2:1 pattern. The pattern
has to be twice the size of the wooden figure that you want to
router. How is your paralllelogram going to be set up to
avoid that? I see only one axis in the picture for the gun
stock carver..that may be a special set up for carving gunstocks
which have a unique shape.

Comment by carverman on November 17, 2010 at 8:47am

I think that the router rig with the 3/4 inch pipe and welded
sliding sleeves is a cheaper way to go as demonstrated in one
of your videos. 3/4 hp routers have a fair amount of torque
and depending on the type of bit require some rigid restraint.
The other problem I've run into with large router/shaper tables
like the Delta, is that you have to be careful how which direction
the grain of the wood is fed into the rotation of the router bit.

If you take too large a cut intially without considering that, you may
be faced with wood tearout as the router bit exits the cut.

Most routers have a screw thread or precision thread depth adjustment and something like that has to be there for the
Z axis, otherwise, that valuable neck wood (or whatever) you
want to carve can become a "flying object" if not secured
properly.

Comment by carverman on November 17, 2010 at 3:53am

The online example has some merit, but setting up the jigs for the
wood piece already carved and the piece to be carved in not shown.

Comment by carverman on November 17, 2010 at 3:48am

I've looked at making a simple DIY carving machine, but I believe
you need a router and a rail scheme that will adjust the router bit
on an X/Y and Z(depth) axis. It can be done fairly cheaply doing
the rounter mount rails for x and Y isn't that difficult but adjusting
the depth of cut requires some thinking.

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• …
• 6
• 7
• 8
• Next ›
• Page