In my last build I decided to tackle getting a decent height/break angle at the bridge. All my prior builds have been neck-straight-through-with-1/4"-bolt-for-a-bridge. But I am reluctant to cut my necks. Don't ask me why. I don't know.
Instead, I got 1-1/2 degrees by offsetting the neck entry and exit holes. And I got another 1-1/2 degrees by building a tapered thickness fretboard. Now I have 5/8" of string height at the bridge, which is wonderful.
I was worried the neck might end up too thick, but I like the feel of it.
I'd be interested to hear thoughts, particularly of more experienced builders. I couldn't find prior discussions, though I'm sure this isn't the first.
::I added more photos in a blog post here: http://www.cigarboxnation.com/profiles/blogs/building-jaime
Cheers!
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If it plays as well as it looks, you've got a winner there mate! Have a good day!
Thanks,Slim!
Thanks. As Wayfinder guessed I used my table saw for the taper. I did the math on a 1-1/2 degree triangle (see, you CAN use that math after HS) and shimmed up a jig. It went better than I expected.
For string height I was aiming for 0.5mm at the first fret and 4mm at the 17th fret. That's only because that's what I keep coming across in classical guitar discussions. My first fret is just under 1mm and I'm at 3-4mm at the 17th. I have no buzz and light action.
I work hard to get my fretboards flat (this one has a VERY slight backwards bow at the body end, which doesn't bother me). I bought an old broken, but sturdy level and taped sandpaper to it. I use this to finish the fretboard and the frets when necessary.
I thought you might have used a table saw. I have done tapered cuts on the table saw to make pencil posts for bed head boards. Also I have used that to make table legs. You did a good job on that. I had not thought of applying a taper cut to a fretboard, but it makes sense.. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, I did. Thanks!
Wow, I haven't seen a tapered fretboard before. Looks great.
Yes neat solution. I'm just planning my first build and hadn't given enough thought to string geometry. I've an adjustable hard tail bridge in the post but will I be able to get acceptable string heights by setting the fretboard above the level of the top of the box? Tapering is outside my available skillset/toolset.
I'm new at this as well. And I'm probably over-thinking it. But from what I've picked up, the critical geometry is the break angle over the bridge. It's this element that puts downward pressure on the soundboard.
Supposedly there's a sweet spot. Too little and strings move around on the bridge and volume is light. (I've experienced this one.) Or too much and the soundboard isn't free to resonate, or worse it just implodes.
I would think that you'll be good to go, so long as you have enough height to get a nice angle over the bridge. Mine is about 15 degrees. This falls right in line with some of the classical instrument discussions I've come across.
Have fun!
O God, more to agonise over :-). I was thinking more about string height over frets. My first will have a hard tail bridge so no break angle to worry about and mainly electric so any natural acoustics will be an accident/bonus. But thinking about a resonator down the line...
Got it. I haven't used a hard tail yet. When you get it finished send us pics. I'd love to see it!
Using a long straight edge(yard stick will work) can help with determining string height at the nut and bridge.
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