Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Thomas "Duck" Petry on January 15, 2016 at 9:13am

Never built any boxes, but from the cigar boxes I've used I would say you wouldn't want to go much thicker than 3/16" for the lid/soundboard.  For the necks I prefer 1"x2" oak with an added 1/4" thick fingerboard.

Permalink Reply by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on January 15, 2016 at 9:37am

Thanks, Thomas. The cbg I bought off of eBay is around 3cm x 3cm, being slightly over an inch, so I guess they may have used a 1"x2" and cut it down? Not sure how it's made but I'll plum for some 2"x1" on your recommendation. This will be my first ever build where I make the box, make a neck and put it all together.

I had a thought too where I can have the box open for storage, to get to the electrics or whatever I want. If I go through the bottom of the box and use the fingerboard to take me over the thin soundboard then I should be good to go. For all intents and purposes the neck will end above the soundboard and nobody should be none the wiser. The neck before the fingerboard will just slide through the hole I make, I'll cut out a recess for the soundboard to resonate and Bob's your uncle. Am I missing anything? This seems the easy way of doing things but on build schematics people tend to steer clear of this apparently easier method. I'm being thick, aren't I? I've missed something obvious I bet.

Permalink Reply by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on January 15, 2016 at 10:55am

Never thought about plywood but I'm sure to find some of that there. Thanks for that. Look for laminated. Roger, Roger. You're a star. Thanks again :)

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on January 16, 2016 at 6:50am

I have found Cedar or Mahogany to sound good for the 4 sides.  Cedar is far less expensive and has good tone..  The major drawback is that it is soft and dents easily.  Thin ply for top and bottom works fine.  Solid wood is better but much more hassle.  I use your method of gluing the top and fastening the bottom with screws for access.  You can make the sides reasonably thick.  You don't get much tone from them anyway.

Permalink Reply by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on January 16, 2016 at 9:12am

Thanks very much for the advice, Gary. It's all about the sound so I'll try cedar or mahogany maybe. Perhaps thicker sides too. I didn't know that the sides didn't make that much difference for the sound so definitely thanks again for mentioning that.

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on January 16, 2016 at 6:54am

If you want to get a real nice look, you might use box joints for the corners.  You would need a table saw or router table or a fancy jig for that.

Permalink Reply by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on January 16, 2016 at 9:16am

Thanks for this too, Gary. I'm definitely about the sound above the wood of the box's appearance this time. I'm thinking another covered build again and already have some gorgeous wallpaper picked out. I'll likely add the bridge on top of the wood and then put the paper everywhere except the bridge so that the acoustics aren't overly affected for the piezo pickup. I hope I've got that idea about right? The bridge would resonate against bare wood on top of a slight plinth and the wallpaper will cover everywhere else? I'll try it anyway :)

Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on January 16, 2016 at 1:01pm

Yes, you don't need that bit of paper dampening the vibration transfer from bridge to soundboard.

Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on January 17, 2016 at 1:40am

Model shops sell hard and soft woods in 3" - 4" widths 3' long in a range of thicknesses.Ideal for sides and ends of boxes.For soundboards and backs these can be joined to make wider boards.Otherwise 3.6mm ply is good for making your own boxes.The soundboard in the photo is timber from a model shop

Permalink Reply by Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear on January 17, 2016 at 2:23am

Thanks very much for commenting, Michael. If I get no joy with the timber merchants I'll definitely give a model shop a try. Gorgeous looking build too by the way.