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Hi guys, I am completely new to the whole CGB game and just spent all day yesterday on my first build.  It was very much improvised and I only used screws, no glue.

 

I am wanting to start on my second build soon but really want to take my time on this one to make it as clean and solid as possible... so my question is, which glue (or epoxy or whatever you use) do you guys recommend using to connect a through-neck to a paper covered cigar box?

 

Thanks,

Brendon.

Tags: box, covered, glue, neck, paper, through

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I wish I would have joined here a long time ago. I had to find out the hard way about gorilla glue. That stuff is bad, It's obvious on any builds where I used it. Now I use ordinary Lepage yellow carpenters glue. I want to try Titebond  but the stuff at the local store closest to me has something called Weldbond. Can anyone tell me if this is similar to Titebond. Even the bottles look similar.



Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Just whatever you do, DO NOT USE GORILLLA GLUE ON ANYTHING! The stuff expands instead of contracts.

 

-WY

 

Tite bond is not hard to find, try Lowes or Home Depot.


Lewin E Leven said:

I wish I would have joined here a long time ago. I had to find out the hard way about gorilla glue. That stuff is bad, It's obvious on any builds where I used it. Now I use ordinary Lepage yellow carpenters glue. I want to try Titebond  but the stuff at the local store closest to me has something called Weldbond. Can anyone tell me if this is similar to Titebond. Even the bottles look similar.



Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Just whatever you do, DO NOT USE GORILLLA GLUE ON ANYTHING! The stuff expands instead of contracts.

 

-WY

I don't use glue either. If I have a wooden box with a latch I use that. For paper-covered boxes I usually use the corner protectors from CB Gitty and screw those on for looks, corner protection and keeping the lid shut.
I do not glue my lids down. I use the latch or the L shaped brackets shown int the attached pics.

Use about 1/4 of what you'd use with Titebond.  You'd be better off with Liquid Nails, made to

hold drywall, not all that different from a fiberboard box top.



Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Just whatever you do, DO NOT USE GORILLLA GLUE ON ANYTHING! The stuff expands instead of contracts.

 

-WY

Weldbond is a high grade, thicker version of white Elmer's PVA, advertised as having more

uses than duct tape.  It'll hold glass, which Elmer's can't.  I see no problems.

 

Lewin E Leven said:

I wish I would have joined here a long time ago. I had to find out the hard way about gorilla glue. That stuff is bad, It's obvious on any builds where I used it. Now I use ordinary Lepage yellow carpenters glue. I want to try Titebond  but the stuff at the local store closest to me has something called Weldbond. Can anyone tell me if this is similar to Titebond. Even the bottles look similar.

 


Here's a good adhesive reference:

 

http://www.renwks.com/encyclopedia/glues.htm

 

It also explains why Tightbond original is better for lutherie than Tightbond II or III.

Type II also dries with an orange glue line.
Information Overload!

BenBob said:

Here's a good adhesive reference:

 

http://www.renwks.com/encyclopedia/glues.htm

 

It also explains why Tightbond original is better for lutherie than Tightbond II or III.

Wes, the standard gorilla glue IS horrible. However, I have been using the gorilla wood glue; it has no expansion and is about the same as t.b. II. As a side note I have been experimenting with using brad/wire nails to attach the lid, but I do glue the neck down if it is going to be a through-body style. If you have to do so much repair to a neck that it needs to be removed...might as well build another git!

Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Just whatever you do, DO NOT USE GORILLLA GLUE ON ANYTHING! The stuff expands instead of contracts.

 

-WY

5 min epoxy and a few finishing nails and that neck will never move!

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