I'm building a new concert scale uke from a CBGitty kit. This time I'm using a dowel glued into the heel/neck block. The problem I'm having is the amount of flex from the neck. For some reason this particular neck is very "bendy". And now I have some concerns with how much it will bow back once I put strings on. Anyone have suggestion on ways I can reinforce the neck to the body to lessen the flex once I string it up?

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Where there's a will there's a way so I'm sure you can reinforce it. Some pictures would be helpful though.

Hi, remove the fingerboard route a slot and install a bar. You probably can't do that, so I'd send it back. A neck held on with dowels is also an unreliable joint, in my experience.

For such a short neck to flex without string tension is a concern for me. I would think the timber is wrong, the grain is wrong direction and/or  fretboard is of a unsuitable timber with Wrong grain direction.

I have repaired both the faults mentioned above, not cheap repairs, but I'm set up for that. 

My advice....contact supplier.

cheers Taff

Yes pictures would help  . and check to make sure if it is actually the neck wood  bowing ,  or if  its more  of a pivot point issue at the neck joint .  the strongest  truss rods in the world wont fix  a pivoting joint  issue . or a box  curling up after the joint. or bend in the  box sidewall.  etcetc ... 

Here's a few pics. An idea I had was to screw in a wood screw into the lowest portion of the exposed heel in the 1st pic ,directly against the channel I drilled out and cover it all with epoxy. Hope I'm explaining this visually enough. Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks. 

Attachments:

I think it’s needs the neck support to travel through the box there’s not enough support with the small block in your picture ,just my humble opinion mate .

The pics do help .  one possibility could be  that your  heal cut ( as straight as it may be)  .  might need adjusting or cut at a slightly different angle . either  due to the side wall being off, or the necks actual shape .( rough example in pic  a bit exaggerated .) . That  can also  give you a downward neck degree , which some folks do on purpose for  more sound and volume ..  and with your high bridge  would most likely solve 2 problems . hopefully all  your stuff is not  glued down yet ? (fretboard on box, bridge  etc?

(it could also just be  being pulled tight on the  top end due the one  screw you already have in there . in which case   don't cut till you try another anchor screw on the bottom  )

still kinda hard to see/ know  what going on there .. so dont jump to any fixes untill you explore more options here  . And start with the easy  / undoable fixes first . 

When the box is closed does your heel block make good contact with the back of the box.?

Ok, the photos do help. The neck grain looks to run correctly, the fingerboard is substantial, so I assume your comments about "flex" to be associated with the neck body/box joint. 

I feel that if you carry that block through the box it will dampen the soundboard too much if glued to the top. You only have low tension nylon strings to drive it. 

I would say that, that block size would work if secured to the front the back and the top. With screws holding the neck as you mentioned. I've used this method using bolts or screws.

Taff

The neck looks quite substantial so I'm guessing you don't mean the neck itself bending like an archer bow, but that the neck/box joint is flexing.

and if so, you need a bigger mounting block that contacts more of the soundboard and the side of the box where the neck mounts, more points to transfer the stress to the whole body and not a small point

and 2 mechanical connectors (dowel, wood screw, bolt into threaded insert) through the block into the neck's heel, as far apart as you can.  Much like a tripod, the wider the spacing the more stable it is.

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