if fretted, strings approx .030 above the first fret, and end up between 2-2.5mm(5/64") somewhere between the 12th and 17th fret, sorry for all the different types of measurements, a string fret scale is cheap, 3-5 bucks on ebay. Some people use a rasp to shape their neck initially, I'm fortunate enough to have several power tools, if I didn't have all the big tools, I'd probably still buy and use a Jig Saw to cut the neck at a 45 degree on the bottom of both sides 3/8" up from the bottom to save a lot of filing and sanding. your nut depth is determined by your first fret.
Hope this helps, plenty of you tube videos with in depth building CBG's, I watched a ton before embarking on a build and I even had a lot of experience already repairing and restoring old classical git's, never can have enough info!
Here's my take on setting the action at the nut.
As for rounding the neck, a spokeshave is cheap, easy and quick. Here's how I do it.
nice, very informative!!!
The old school method of setting up at the nut is to put your finger down between the second and third strings. Then if you can slide a cigarete paper between the string and the first fret the nut is at the perfect height.
Here is my take on shaping necks https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hwpjJeD4_3M
Here master luthier Robert Obrien taking you through setting up an acoustic guitar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x65OBpNO5LM
I must try the Kiwi! We have Kiwi knives we buy in Chinatown and love them. What type of wood was that uke neck? Cuts like butter!
Hi, I see a lot of people quote string heights that are fine on a full acoustic or electric guitar, but may not work well on CBGs. I always set up a bit higher.
A couple of reasons, without going into it too deeply is, 3-4 string CBG's do not have an adjustable rod in the neck so relief cannot be adjusted into the fingerboard, so the board is flat. This can mean Less clearance for a vibrating string. There is less distance between fret and string when the string is set in motion.
Couple this with less than perfect fret installation and you will get string/fret buzzing.
One could build the relief into the neck or as is probably the case the neck will bow up (creating relief) under string tension. Lastly you may require a higher action when using a slide. It's easier to come down to a suitable action than raise it, so I would suggest starting on the higher side, play, and adjust to suit your style.
Hope this helps. Taff
I don't know how high the strings need to be either, that's why I love threaded rod, bolts and set screws and carry these in my guitar case:
I can go high for slide, low for fingering or in between as a compromise for both. Using a non-open tuning I can have the strings low at the nut end for making chords easier and high at the bridge end for slide. Easy as slackening the strings and changing rods. Threads rule! :D