Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 15, 2014 at 2:27pm

Richey,
When you say slightly larger size neck for 4 string. What size and where do you find it?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on July 15, 2014 at 7:44pm

Well, I'm afraid I'm a metric kinda guy really but my wood supplier sells me 22x35mm for 3 stringers, and 24x37mm for 4 stringers. For a 4 stringer I use an 11mm string spacing at the bridge, leaving me about 2mm at either side of the fretboard, although I do taper the strings so they are closer together at the nut (8mm) 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 15, 2014 at 2:43pm

can you explain the back angle a bit more please

how you get that larger headstock on there?

how to overlap the fretboard on the top of the box.

I've been intimidated at the above.. the making of a heel, creating a wooden tailpiece , and any scarf joints.
Your drawing is really great which I'll try to follow. I'm wondering how to make tailpieces out of wood as the strings would slip/cut through the wood on a wooden tailpiece. I'm looking to find some kinda solution like some string holders that could be found or made expensively (any help on that appreciated.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 15, 2014 at 3:46pm

Your awesome ...I do that with photos too it really helps and it's great to see the great looking instruments.....what a great site this is. So much appreciation for everyone's help. Thank you

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 15, 2014 at 3:49pm

So true. Best site in the world (in my opinion)

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on July 15, 2014 at 8:05pm

In terms of back angle, think of it like this: If you imagine a perfectly straight neck, the strings will slope down from the bridge to the nut. If you want enough clearance from the box lid to use your fingers or a pick, the bridge is going to have to be quite a bit higher than the nut. This will also cause the action to get progressively much higher as you go up the neck.

When you have a back angle, you can have a taller bridge, and therefore lots of clearance from the box lid, and while the strings still slope down to the nut, they follow the angle of the neck, so the action remains nice and low all the way down the fretboard.

Go back to my diagram and have a think about this: If the neck runs through the box, and is resting on a wooden block at each end (this is where I affix the neck to the box using screws), if both blocks are exactly the same height, the neck will be straight. If the one at the front matches the notch cut for the neck to enter the box, and the one at the back is a little higher (this depends on the length of the box but you're generally talking 4-5mm), then your neck will angle down slightly - it's that simple!

The wider headstocks are simply achieved by gluing strips of wood on either side of the existing head end of the neck, then you just sand them down and Bob's your uncle.

I don't actually overlap the fretboard over the box - this would make it difficult to access the inside of the box for adjustments - when you see this on my builds I have always cut the lid of the box slightly to allow for this. Exactly the same principle as cutting the end of the box for the neck.

The heel is just part of the design  - the 2 parts of the neck are glued together, I cut a 45 degree angle and then shape with rasps and files - I'll post some pics when I'm at my PC.

Wooden tailpiece is easy - use a piece of hardwood (I usually use fretboard scraps), then drill 4mm holes for the strings, then get down to your local bike shop and ask for some spoke nipples (depending on the shop they will be free or almost free). Glue these inside the holes and you have some very cheap string ferrules. Take a look through my pics, as the concept is always the same.

...and I don't do scarf joints - I don't own any power tools and I don't have the confidence to attempt one without a band/table saw.

Hope this helps.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 16, 2014 at 10:01am

Can't wait to try this. Great ...really great!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 15, 2014 at 6:55pm

Love this alot :) extremely simple is me. I'm a musician so these 3 stringers are really a joy to be creative in a whole new way. And less is more in so many ways. thank you.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Richey Kay on July 15, 2014 at 8:09pm

Nothing wrong with that Wayfinder - this is exactly the same design I used at first. The only reason I went back to the drawing board was to allow for magnetic pickups, bracing under the box lid etc. My first 10 CBGs were done exactly like this.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 22, 2014 at 5:18pm

Still finding it hard to cut the notch with a deeper/thicker box lid. I think I'll look for boxes with thinner lids in the future ...still getting it but I find myself having to eyeball the two notches on either side of the box.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on July 22, 2014 at 6:09pm

Top and bottom notch only one side done..

Attachments:

• image.jpg, 1.7 MB

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• Next ›
• Page