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If you've cut the slots way too big, you're pretty well screwed. You need a really tight fit with the tang of the fretwire. You might get away with filling the slots really tight with veneer and recutting - (I've done that a couple of times with a wrongly placed slot but wouldn't want to risk it x 20. Any sort of filling will tend to fall out once you start re-slotting. Titebond glue is pretty good, dries nice and hard, regular white PVA type woodworking glue is pretty soft stuff compared with it. Are you doing the fret direct into the neck or on a seperate fretboad? Have you got enought thickness to plane it down and start over? It's possible to recover almost any situation, but to be honest it would be quicker and easier to make new fretboard from scratch. If you want an oak fretboard blank or a pre- slotted board I can do one for you...I've got some pre-thicknessed fretboard blanks ready to go. For future reference, it's really important to have saw that cuts a narrow enough kerf... too late I know, but it's all learning experience!
I agree with John Move on Use it as a fretless & give the next one more thought It happens to all of us
If the slots are only a mm deep then maybe you can plane it flush and re-slot..with a narrower saw this time!
remove the frets and raise the nut .. and you have a nice slider .
Try using something other than fret wire, I have used 1/8" brass rod on some builds (requires a wider slot). Some people on here use toothpicks or finish nails. You can always take wood out, but it's hard to put it back. If you can find it, try a two part wood filler, some of them get pretty hard, and then recut your slots. That is too nice a build to give up on.
That what our original idea was going to be. We found some chrome coloured tubing at a modelling shop, which would have done the job had I done it properly.
Well, if the neck/fretboard was still in the building stages, I would have suggested finding someone who has a planer and run it through it to shave it down.But, it being attached to the body, with a headstock in place will rule that option out.
You can try sanding it down to eliminate part of the slots, but it is going to require a lot of elbow grease.
When you are ready to give it a shot again, take a look at the fretting video on my page here, it may help you out quite a bit.
Get a hack saw blade for a coping saw. Lay it on your work surface and run a single cut bastard file across the side of the teeth a couple of times, flip the blade over and repeat. This will leave you with a kerf the same thickness as the blade which works out perfectly with the medium fret wire from CB Gitty.
You lose some cut but not enough to matter when sawing wood.
Spray the blade with silicon lubricant or moly gun lubricant and let it dry thoroughly before using to help prevent binding and tearouts because of the reduced kerf.
Put the blade in the coping saw frame with the teeth angled toward you for a pull cut to provide better control.
Have you got the right saw this time? You need a blade that will cut a slot .023" (0.58mm). Good luck!
Don't skimp on a saw, good ones cut much better than cheap ones.