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Newbie introduction and question

Hi guys, My name is Alex and I'm a newbie, though I have been silently stalking the forums for some months looking for information. Last year my other half picked up and instructable for a 3 string slide guitar which we built out of a pool cue case with a fair amount of success. During the research period we stumbled across CBG and decided that it would be our next project. We have deviated somewhat and have built a cookie tin banjo (fretted 5 string). I think it was a little ambitious for a first one, but oh well. The problem I'm having is the fretting. I screwed it up the first time, using random bits of modelling wire and a file to make the frets. Unsurprisingly they were not level. After months of staring at the thing I decided that I would fret it properly. Got some actual fret wire, fret hammer and end cutters for the job. Now the problem is, I made the fret slots too wide the first time round, you could fit an elephant in there, and changing the fret board is not an option (hand cut white oak with a rubbish saw, years I tell thee!). So, I thought that sanding down some of the oak for sawdust and filling the slots with that and a mix of glue and then re-cut? What do you chaps think? Anyone had to do this before? If so what glue is best to use?

Anyway, I seem to have rambled on enough for now.

Regards

Alexandra.

Tags: Banjo, Cookie, Fretting, Tin

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on February 1, 2012 at 11:10am

If you've cut the slots way too big, you're pretty well screwed. You need a really tight fit with the tang of the fretwire. You might get away with filling the slots really tight with veneer and recutting - (I've done that a couple of times with a wrongly placed slot but wouldn't want to risk it x 20. Any sort of filling will tend to fall out once you start re-slotting. Titebond glue is pretty good, dries nice and hard, regular white PVA type woodworking glue is pretty soft stuff compared with it. Are you doing the fret direct into the neck or on a seperate fretboad? Have you got enought thickness to plane it down and start over? It's possible to recover almost any situation, but to be honest it would be quicker and easier to make new fretboard from scratch. If you want an oak fretboard blank or a pre- slotted board I can do one for you...I've got some pre-thicknessed fretboard blanks ready to go. For future reference, it's really important to have saw that cuts a narrow enough kerf... too late I know, but it's all learning experience!

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Permalink Reply by wes carl on February 1, 2012 at 1:01pm

I agree with John Move on Use it as a fretless & give the next one more thought It happens to all of us

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Permalink Reply by Jackaddict on February 1, 2012 at 1:37pm

It is a separate fretboard, and looking at the slots they are only about a mil in depth so I think I will try and sand them out and start again as I'm not quire ready to give up on it yet.

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on February 1, 2012 at 6:11pm

If the slots are only a mm deep then maybe you can plane it flush and re-slot..with a narrower saw this time!

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Permalink Reply by the anonymous pick on February 1, 2012 at 2:41pm

remove the frets and raise the nut .. and you have a nice slider .

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Permalink Reply by William McCauley on February 1, 2012 at 4:49pm

Try using something other than fret wire, I have used 1/8" brass rod on some builds (requires a wider slot). Some people on here use toothpicks or finish nails. You can always take wood out, but it's hard to put it back. If you can find it, try a two part wood filler, some of them get pretty hard, and then recut your slots. That is too nice a build to give up on.

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Permalink Reply by Jackaddict on February 2, 2012 at 11:32am

That what our original idea was going to be. We found some chrome coloured tubing at a modelling shop, which would have done the job had I done it properly.

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Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on February 1, 2012 at 5:21pm

Well, if the neck/fretboard was still in the building stages, I would have suggested finding someone who has a planer and run it through it to shave it down.But, it being attached to the body, with a headstock in place will rule that option out.

You can try sanding it down to eliminate part of the slots, but it is going to require a lot of elbow grease.

When you are ready to give it a shot again, take a look at the fretting video on my page here, it may help you out quite a bit.

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Permalink Reply by Jackaddict on February 2, 2012 at 9:39am

Well, I gave the sanding idea a go today. Once the vibration white finger has passed I will measure up for the fret spacing. Excuse the bad quality picture. My Blackberry isn't know for it's great camera.

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Permalink Reply by robert jones on February 2, 2012 at 10:47am

Get a hack saw blade for a coping saw. Lay it on your work surface and run a single cut bastard file across the side of the teeth a couple of times, flip the blade over and repeat. This will leave you with a kerf the same thickness as the blade which works out perfectly with the medium fret wire from CB Gitty.

You lose some cut but not enough to matter when sawing wood.

Spray the blade with silicon lubricant or moly gun lubricant and let it dry thoroughly before using to help prevent binding and tearouts because of the reduced kerf.

Put the blade in the coping saw frame with the teeth angled toward you for a pull cut to provide better control.