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Tung Oil is available in many mix's. The real thing is a slow process as you stated but if you get a tung oil finnish, like Homer Formsby's it has no tung oil in it. Its just thinned varnish to make it easily rubbed on. Thats what I use and it works well, dries quick enough and hard.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I have a few builds in the works, so I'm sure I'll be able to try them out!
I just tried teak oil on the last build on the neck and fretboard- I like the results. I have only used Krylon clear on the others.
I have used paste wax a couple of times. I haven't been at this long enough to tell you how it will hold up over the years, but it is easy to apply and easy to reapply (or so I've heard). The arguments against are "less durable" and a sometimes claim of "waxy buildup." I've done three or four. They finish quickly, look nice, and feel GREAT. Time will tell, I suppose.
I've also done a few with tung oil. Mine basically dried overnight and were not gummy. I'm suspecting relative humidity...? I didn't risk it while it was raining!
I'd sure love to see a few pics of how you apply that OZ-brew! What is aerosol oil in OZ? I'm thinking a cousin of WD40 or maybe Pam cooking spay! Post a link? Over the top: got an MSDS?
side note: dunno why, but I thought you were a kiwi... O.0
Based on guitar building books I've read, ebony and rosewood are usually oiled while maple is lacquered. Ebony and rosewood are very hard and naturally oily, the oil helps lubricate your fingers to avoid squeaking the strings. Maple being relatively softer requires a little more protection.
I have used the tung oil on my necks and I love the way it feels. It also looks great. Polyurethane is basically like encasing it in plastic, Id stay away from that.
can i use danish oil over the strings or have they got to be taken of
Rubbed oil finishes such as tung oil, Danish oil and Tru-Oil are generally oils with a catalyst or accelerator added to ensure that they dry thoroughly to leave a hard finish. Raw or boiled linseed or other plain vegetable-origin oils won't dry in this way, but tend to leave a sticky residue. In either case, you don't want this to get on your strings! I like TruOil (gunstock finish) for necks.
On dark fingerboard woods such as rosewood, ebony and some other hardwoods, lemon oil will do the job, just soaking into the the wood enough to give a nicely darkened colour without building up any sort of residue, and can also be used periodically to clean the board. As I understand it, it's basically a mineral oil with volatile extracts added to it.
With lighter fretboard woods such as maple or oak, a lacquer will help keep it from discoloring. I've used clear spray acrylic on the fretboard and the neck itself, but stuff like uncatalysed brushed polyurethane will leave a rather soft sticky finish which in my opinion doesn't belong on any sort of instrument neck.
thanks john i think ill just leave it
dont want to risk it i think ill leave it it has some sort of finish on it