I'm wondering if any of you out there have used this style bridge before? It's a rosewood platform with a bone nut inserted. Holes for 3 strings predrilled. I am thinking this style bridge must be screwed down to the top and neck in order to install it properly. Any ideas? Thank you all in advance! Great site!

BTW. I just noticed that it has to be screwed/glue down. But can I use bronze strings? It says for plastic strings.

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It should work but do you have a pic of the bridge you are talking about?

Gitty sells the 4 string uke rosewood and bone bridge. I don't have a picture at this time but will remember that a picture is worth a thousand words next time.

Hi Robbie your description is a little confusing mate. Are you referring to the nut on the end of the fingerboard, or the bridge [with a bone saddle] on the top. Yes a photo would help.

Taff 

I'm thinking he's talking about this

 I see, thanks Richard. It threw me when mentioned screwing a bridge to the neck. That type of bridge would be glued to the guitar top. It must be a through neck. 

Screwing the bridge to the neck through the top, would kill any good acoustic response.

Taff 

Any suggestions on what type of glue? 5 minute epoxy? The strings are fed through the  holes then over the bone bridge and I was thinking that would cause a lot of stress on the top of the box.

If the box top is wood, make sure the area where the bridge will be in according to the intonation is free of any labels, just bare wood, apply Titebond wood glue to the bottom of your bridge and the top of the box, clamp at least an hour before removing clamp, 24 hrs to set, I leave my clamps on at least 4+ hrs.

under the lid of the box, some bracing would be beneficial, not ladder style, some kind of X-bracing to prevent it from lifting the lid or string pressure caving it in. If a through neck acoustic, you may have to channel the neck so there's room for the bracing, if it's electric only, let the neck through meet the bottom of the box and secure the lid to the neck.

Epoxy really is hardly ever needed, wood glue will bond most anything wood to wood stronger than most people realize, epoxy is good if you have to fill some kind of gap while gluing, and it will be permanent meaning never to remove, as it will be dang near impossible to do so later, at least with wood glue, heat/steam can usually allow separation, easy cleanup and re-gluing if needed.

That's exactly it.

Hi also remember to secure the ends of cross braces to the sides if you want real strength/support. 

My thought is that that a simple transverse brace/s  would provide enough support with maybe a bridge plate inside. Either way structural braces, I feel, do their job better if supported at their ends. 

I liken it to a road or train bridge where the supports of the bridge don't go all the way to the bank on either side. They will support the load, but for how long?

All that Richard says is correct, once you try a couple of ways you will know what suits your instruments for yourself.

Taff

Thanks everyone so much! Great group!

Glue only is likely why it comes with a tag for plastic strings only. Bronze will rip it right off.  as a teenager I ruined a good Sears catalog 6 string with the wrong strings. the bridge, glue, and several layers of the plywood face dangled from the end of the slack strings :-(

I would think glue would work fine on a 3 stringer. It should only be about 30-40lbs of tension tuned G2,D3,G3.

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